Worldwide icon-chevron-right North America icon-chevron-right United States icon-chevron-right New York State icon-chevron-right New York icon-chevron-right Jams

Jams

Restaurants, American Midtown West
3 out of 5 stars
3 out of 5 stars
(1user review)
 (Paul Wagtouicz)
1/7
Paul WagtouiczBurger at Jams
 (Paul Wagtouicz)
2/7
Paul WagtouiczRed pepper pancakes at Jams
 (Paul Wagtouicz)
3/7
Paul WagtouiczChicken with tarragon butter at Jams
 (Paul Wagtouicz)
4/7
Paul WagtouiczRed snapper with sauteed bok choi, black vinegar sesame at Jams
 (Paul Wagtouicz)
5/7
Paul WagtouiczRigatoni with squid ink, crab, garlic and chili at Jams
 (Paul Wagtouicz)
6/7
Paul WagtouiczJams
 (Paul Wagtouicz)
7/7
Paul WagtouiczJams

Time Out says

3 out of 5 stars

Long before farm-to-table was more rule than exception—before cauliflower and kale became gastro fetishes, before dining rooms were fixed with reclaimed-wood slabs scattered with heirloom beets and petite brussels sprouts—, Jonathan Waxman was leading the produce-driven way. From 1984 to 1989, Waxman, with wine-expert partner Melvyn Master, introduced his then-exotic brand of California cuisine —nurtured under the great Alice Waters at Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California, and at Michael’s in Santa Monica—to the Upper East Side via Jams, a cabernet-fueled clubhouse with easy elegance and a killer roast chicken.

After nearly three decades—and a successful foray into rustic Italian (11-year-old Barbuto)—, Jams is back, and so is that famed chicken ($25). The beautifully browned bird’s simple adornments belie its lusciousness, with tarragon- infused compound butter dripping shamelessly from its crisp skin. It’s like worn-in denim: those comforts deepen with time.

Not all Jams holdovers are as welcome. Flaccid red-pepper pancakes nestled in corn puree and draped with smoked salmon, crème fraîche and caviar pearls ($25) can’t shake their ’80s cocktail-party quality. Better are newer offerings, like an eight-ounce “bar snack” burger fitted with farmhouse cheddar and thick-cut bacon ($21), or a summer’s-end plate of pan-seared gnocchi pillows, fresh and bright with slips of Maine lobster, wedges of yellow squash and bursting cherry tomatoes ($25).

You won’t find shockingly innovative or grandiose cooking at Jams. But what you will find is a good chef, back to his old ways.

By: Christina Izzo

Posted:

Details

Address: 1414 Sixth Ave
New York
10019
Cross street: at 58th St
Transport: Subway: F to 57th St (Sixth Ave)
Price: Average main course: $25. AmEx, MC, V
Contact:
Opening hours: Mon-Thu 5-11pm; Fri, Sat 5pm-midnight
Do you own this business?

Users say (1)

3 out of 5 stars