Malka

Dining at Malka in Dumbo, the kosher Israeli restaurant by celebrity chef Eyal Shani, shifts depending on when you walk through the door. On most nights, it’s a polished, Middle Eastern–flavored dining experience, anchored by the now-famous golden Malka schnitzel—stuffed with mashed potatoes and served with dips begging to be dragged through.

The vibe: Weeknights are calm and focused on the food, but come Thursday, the lights dim, the DJ cranks up and the restaurant transforms into a Tel Aviv–style party. Prix fixe tends to dominate because who has time to order while people are dancing on tables? The Dumbo outpost, Shani’s first U.S. kosher venture after the Upper West Side debut in 2023, also hosts wine-pairing dinners spotlighting kosher bottles from around the world, matched with regionally inspired dishes.

The food: While the menu offers green beans, a field-of-greens salad and red meat entries, the schnitzel steals the show. Crispy and stuffed just right, it practically crackles under your knife, revealing a pillowy potato filling. Order it as a starter with the focaccia to swipe up every last bit. The branzino hraime—a North African fish stew in a fiery tomato, garlic and chili sauce—is another standout, served whole and begging for that same bread-soaking treatment.

The drinks: Cocktails hit the mark with Israeli-inspired twists: the Jerusalem Negroni with grapefruit, the Limonarak with arak, mint and soda and the Sweet Luisa with gin, lemon, honey, verbena and brut. The wine list leans heavily Israeli, featuring bottles you won’t find elsewhere.

Time Out tip: Choose your night based on the vibe: Thursday for a full Tel Aviv fantasia, any other night for relaxed, focused dining. Either way, the kitchen doesn’t waver—the schnitzel and hraime arrive perfectly every time.