I was drawn to the Upper West Side solely for a slice of pizza that had a whole mess of corn on it. But when I made my way past the threshold of the door, I was soon tempted by the full lineup just beyond the glass partition: squares showered with pecorino and Parmigiano, crumbles of fried chicken on another and slices of poached pear on the next. This is the decision you make when visiting Mama's Too. All pies are courtesy of owner Frank Tuttolomondo. Made the way he likes to eat pizza, the pizzas here toe the line at NYC- and Detroit-style. But regardless of how you want to label them, New Yorkers enjoy them all the same.
The vibe: The original shop in the UWS seems like a standard slice shop, one with few chairs, wooden counters for eating over and gold ceilings. Beyond the glass, you can also observe the kitchen operations, where staff roll out dough and adorn pies with a variety of creations. There is always a chance for a bit of line, but more often than not, you can be on your way in 20 minutes or less.
The food: The first decision you'll have to make is triangle or square. The triangle slices share commonalities with the New York style—it has a good charred bottom, crispy crust and folds the way it should. The square slice isn't quite Detroit either, though it does share the same shape and wonderfully caramelized exterior. No matter what configuration you choose, just know it is going to be a good one. One of their most famous slices (and for good reason) is the Angry Nonna, a hot little number with hot soppressata, a combo of Calabrian chili oil and hot honey and aged mozz to level things out. The cacio e pepe was easily a favorite of the bunch with creamy marscapone, aged mozz and a literal shower of Pecorino Romano and Parmigiano Reggiano. Keep in mind, there is fresh cracked black pepper on here, so chew gingerly if you are worried about any sensitive molars. Tack on any seasonal special, like the elote loaded with sweet corn kernels and cotija cheese and you'll be set for a nap afterwards.
The drinks: There is a small fridge near the entryway with a few usual suspects, sodas and fizzy water. The UWS location doesn't serve alcohol, but the West Village one has cocktails, wines and beers.
Time Out tip: If you arrive without wanting a slice, Mama's is here to feed you with sandwiches loaded with similar ingredients that mirror their pies. Gelato is also an option with flavors like strawberry creamsicle and sticky toffee pudding.