For over a decade, Bushwick’s Ops has worn the title of "neighborhood eatery" quite well, thanks to its tangy and puffed sourdough pies and natural wines, all served in a space that's cozy and inviting. Now, Manhattan is getting the same treatment with the beloved eatery's East Village outpost. Popular dishes crossed the bridge too, as did a lineup of tavernetta-style pies.
The vibe: While the lights flickered on just a few months ago, the pizzeria naturally gives off a lived-in vibe. Curved red woods mimic the heavy-wood interior of its sister original location, but there is more space to be had here with 60 seats inside and 20 streetside seats that open up when the weather is warm. Whether you are sat at a red banquette or at the bar near the kitchen, conversations hum with ease making the space a shoe-in for a catch up with friends or date night spot.
The food: Ops' greatest hits have carried over, including the Rojo pizza with its blanket of mortadella and the Cicero pie with a whole mess of onions. But with an electric oven leftover from the previous tenant, Fadem channels his childhood of St. Louis by rolling out cracker thin pizzas. Found under the "Tavernetta" part of the menu, you can try three of these Midwestern pies: the classic with cheese; the Pissaladiere with a spread of anchovies, olives and a ton of sweet and jammy onions; and the Hawaiian, with, you guessed it, pineapples and ham. Fadem's nostalgia continues on with plates of gooey lasagna, something that should be ordered and shared. But before you fill up too quickly on pizza and red sauce, save a little room for dessert. The flourless cake with an airy plop of whipped ricotta on top is an easy sell.
Drinks: Back in the day, Ops initially started out as a wine bar that just happened to have pizza. While the concept may have flipped on its head, Ops still has a solid line of natural wines by the glass and bottle. There are a few cocktails, many of which add amaro to the mix.