Shrimp with dirty rice
Fried "yard bird"
Cheddar apple pie
Some of the city's most popular restaurants serve food that satisfies on a visceral level---consistent, accessible, easy to like. Places where the music, crowd, drinks and space explain, as much as the menu, why it's packed every night.
Which sums up precisely the instant and overwhelming success of Marcus Samuelsson's new Harlem bistro, Red Rooster. The restaurant's global soul food, a "We Are the World" mix of Southern-fried, East African, Scandinavian and French, is a good honest value. But it's outshone here by the venue itself, with its hobnobbing bar scrum, potent cocktails and lively jazz.
Like an uptown Pastis, the sprawling space is inviting and buzzy---already the place to be north of 110th Street. Harlem politicos mix at the teardrop bar with downtown fashionistas, everyone happily gorging on rib-sticking food. Not since Sylvia's opened a few doors down has a restaurant in this neighborhood drawn so many diners from elsewhere in the city.
Red Rooster is Samuelsson at his most populist. While the former Aquavit chef, now a TV star with his own burger chain, mostly sacrifices elegance in favor of mass appeal, you'll still find the occasional haute cuisine flourish. Slippery ribbons of house-smoked salmon and gravlax---"lox and lax" on the playful menu---are served with Ethiopian injera fried into chips, in a pretty ho-hum multinational dish. But a paint-splatter smear of purple mustard lends a chefly touch to the final plate. Warm duck liver pudding, on the other hand, looks a little sad with a few meager petals of pastrami-cured duck breast shingled beside it, but turns out to be pretty inspired---a savory spin on a molten chocolate cake, with spiced foie gras oozing instead from its liquid center.
Apart from these upmarket detours, most of the food is gregarious fun. Dirty rice topped with four plump barbecued shrimp is more international than authentically bayou, the spicy chicken-liver-enriched pilaf flecked with an appealing mix of curry leaves and toasted almonds.
The main courses are even more gutsy---roadhouse fare in a brasserie setting. Samuelsson layers on flavors, generously anointing his crispy fried chicken with hot sauce, mace gravy and his own secret smoky spice shake. Taking the same more-is-more tact, the chef adds celery root rmoulade and pickles fried in chickpea batter to beautifully blackened catfish fillets. He piles pickled cipollini and plantain chips on oxtail slow-braised in Mother's Milk Stout until it's barely clinging to the bone.
All of this food is as relaxed as the setting itself---breezy and cheerful, its walls stocked with antique bric-a-brac and works from local artists. Desserts---apple pie with aged cheddar baked in the crust; a super-deluxe spin on a Snickers bar with chocolate ganache, caramel and a French sabl cookie---share the same everyday quality as the rest of the menu, familiar and homey but with a professional touch.
It all adds up to a place that, for reasons apparent as soon as you cross its threshold, has earned its status as a local hub. All by itself, a restaurant can bring new life to a neighborhood's culinary scene. For Harlem, it's easy to imagine that's exactly what Red Rooster will do.
Eat this: Duck liver pudding, shrimp with dirty rice, fried "yard bird," chocolate peanut butter bar
Drink this: The drinks list, heavy on dark spirits, includes cocktails by Moses Laboy that are as bold as the food. The Lenox ($15) enriches a classic Manhattan with tawny port and cocoa-infused bourbon, while the Big Red Rooster ($14), also bourbon-based, packs a cinnamon punch.
Sit here: The liveliest spots are up front at the riotous bar. For a view of the action in the open kitchen, request a table in back, with a view of the flaming wood oven.
Conversation piece: Samuelsson's new restaurant doubles as a gallery space, with oversize works on the walls by notable New York artists, including Harlem residents LeRone Wilson and Philip Maysles.
|Venue name:||Red Rooster Harlem||Contact:|
310 Malcolm X Blvd (Lenox Ave)
|Cross street:||between 125th and 126th Sts|
|Opening hours:||Mon–Wed 11:30am–3pm, 5:30-10:30pm; Thu, Fri 11:30am–3pm, 5:30-11:30pm; Sat 10am–4pm, 5:30–11:30pm; Sun 10am–4pm, 5–10pm|
|Transport:||Subway: 2, 3 to 125th St|
|Price:||Average main course: $22. AmEx, Disc, MC, V|
|Do you own this business?|
Average User Rating
4.2 / 5
- 5 star:4
- 4 star:3
- 3 star:2
- 2 star:0
- 1 star:0
I went to Red Rooster for thanksgiving dinner as had a friend in town and it was fantastic!We ate downstairs in Ginny’s supper club as they had live music down there.The music was great but we preferred it upstairs as the atmosphere was better and it just had a better vibe at the bar.Food wise it was good, not great, but we chose the buffet option, again probably a mistake as we got there toward the end of the sitting.All of that said though it is a great place and well worth a trip to Harlem even if you’re not close.The drinks were fantastic, the bar is ridiculously friendly and all in all you just have a great time!
Highly recommended, but yet a little disappointing. The menu is typical American food. However, it still does not leave à lasting impression.
Atmosphere: Trendy and modern. Crowd was mixed from young to old.
Service: The host was quick to attend to us and the waiter was friendly and attentive.
Food: We had the chicken and waffles, the wild, wild wings, corn bread and Parmesan fries.
I wasn't a fan of how the fried chicken was seasoned.
The cornbread was delicious, especially with the side tomatoes sauce.
The wings were crispy and tasty.
The fries were good as well.
Overall I think everyone should go here at least once.
I would come back to try some of their other dishes.
I very excitedly visited Red Rooster for the first time as part of a surprise birthday dinner I had planned. We were seated at a long communal table with high stools. The place was packed and I would have preferred a table to ourselves rather than rubbing elbows with a larger group dining next to us. The food was delicious, but I think overpriced for the portion size you receive. The Fried Yard Bird dish was great, but not a lot of bang for your buck. I took the waiter’s suggestion and ordered the Mac and Greens but found it underwhelming. The Red Rooster Doughnuts were a fantastic dessert. A highlight of the night: Marcus Samuelsson himself made the rounds in the dining room, greeting customers and pausing for a friendly chat on his way out for the evening. Big props to him for cultivating that kind of warm, familial ambiance in an NYC restaurant.
Amazing!! I made reservations for the Red Rooster the day before -which is the same establishment as Ginny's, (I'm Guessing since they have the same menu). Unfortunately I had to cancel because my brother arrived late from the airport. The next afternoon we toured NY and later stopped in Harlem since- I love Harlem & he can not believe that the area is being gentrified. He hasn't been to NY in 15 years and any memory of Harlem he has is very unsavory to say the least. He seemed slightly impressed as we walked the Harlem streets. When we got to Red Rooster we did not have a reservation since we were winging it for the day and the place was beyond packed.
The Hostess was very sweet she offered to take us to Ginny's and waived the $25 cover charge. The wait staff is immensely cordial and attentive never did they drop the ball in any way. The live show started and I can tell my was impressed by the ambience. We swayed to the Wake Up Madagascar band and enjoyed dinner - Blackened Catfish (me), Applewood Smoked Salmon (him), Bottle water: presentation was classy, Chickpea salad: tasty. For Dessert I had the strawberry shortcake: delish, and he had the black bottom peanut pie: super good yum.
I have been to Red Rooster before but I never new of the hidden treasure (Ginny's) beneath the floor board. This will be my new guilty pleasure. I have to stop by at least once a month.