No, we can't swing a trip to Italy every summer. But with the arrival of Roscioli NYC, we can feel like we have, regardless of the season. A family-owned operation born in Rome, Roscioli is world-renowned as one of Italy's finest for its curation of cheeses, meats, breads and wine. Back in 2021, the storied institution came to NYC for a week-long residency at Ariel Arce's dinner party soiree, Niche Niche. It was there that the team decided a longer layover in New York was needed. With Arce on as a partner, Roscioli gained permanence by taking over the Niche Niche spot in the West Village in 2023. Now, Roscioli NYC serves as the first-ever concept outside of the motherland. Located on the corner of King and MacDougal, Roscioli delights as an ode to everything Italian, functioning as a one-stop of curated and imported goodies and two distinct dining experiences, both fine and casual, that bring the storied cooking of Rome to life.
The vibe: Roscioli's ethos is that "great ingredients from the deli make for a great meal." Their ground-level space builds off that, as the dining room sits smack dab in the middle of a functioning delicatessen. Nearly every inch of the dual-purpose room is stocked with various Italian provisions—jars of green olives and pepperocini hover over booths. At the same time, tables for two can admire the restaurant's dried pasta and sauces while eating them. It is easy to walk up to the glass-case deli counter that also doubles as a kitchen, and point and choose from a rotating lineup of cheese and cured meats by the slice, pound and even by the board. The swanky side of Roscioli, however, lies a staircase below. There you'll find a cavernous brick-lined cellar that hosts coursed dinners and private events all in the presence of its many, many wines.
The food: Roscioli is well known for its pantry of 300 cheeses and some 200 cured meats. So, it is best to start with a plate of one or the other (or really both). Of course, you can build your own as you see fit, but we'd recommend letting the cheesemongers play guide, as the menu breaks down into expert picks of semi-firm and hard cheeses, as well as "unusual" rinds. Giving the reins to the staff from a recent visit yielded translucent strips of prosciutto, aged 24 to 30 months, whose fatty edges melted before I got a chance to chew, as well as beet-red coppa marked by marbling of white strips of fat and muscle. It came complemented with thumb-sized olives and a paste-like honey with crunchy sugar crystals. And what are some provisions without bread? Opt for the bread basket, with slices studded with figs and thick sourdough chunks, plus sweetened bits of tomato. It also comes with two types of olive oil to drag it all through.
Naturally, Roman pasta is one of the main draws. Keeping it simple but wonderfully made, there is Carbonara with bits of smoky guanciale in a silky sauce that sticks to your lips (and most likely, later, your ribs). Meaty bits of guanciale are also found in the red-sauced Amatricana, balancing the smoke with a tart sauce with sizeable bits of tomato left behind. But perhaps the most famous is the Burro e Parmigiano "Francescana" with a snow of Parmigiano Vacche Rosse, aged for 24 months. It is generously mixed with so much butter that the sauce leans yellow.
The drink: There are no cocktails here, only wine. But with thousands of bottles at hand, including reserve varieties that go up to $250, getting a glass is a good idea. Plus, the wines are scouted by the Roscioli team, meaning you'll only find varietals that adhere to sustainable and biodynamic practices.
Time Out tip: Curious minds can sign up for Roscioli's weekly wine or cheese classes to taste and learn more about Italy's cultural foods.