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Rose’s Bar and Grill (CLOSED)

  • Restaurants
  • Prospect Heights
  • price 2 of 4
  • 3 out of 5 stars
  1. Janelle Jones
    Janelle Jones

    Vegetable plate at Rose's Bar & Grill

  2. Paul Wagtouicz
    Paul Wagtouicz

    Burger at Rose's Bar & Grill

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Time Out Says

3 out of 5 stars

“The menu’s behind me,” says the friendly but all-business bartender, after you’ve spent a few awkward moments fruitlessly searching for a bill of fare. Perusing the chicken-scratch scrawl on the chalkboard at Rose’s—the grill-leaning Marco’s replacement from Franny’s pizza power couple Andrew Feinberg and Francine Stephens—you’ll feel like you’re being punked. The “menu” is a 15-items-or-less spread (well if 15 items or less counts as a spread) of bar snacks (nuts, pickles), barely four main courses and a $14 vegetable plate that warrants a Saturday Night Live “Really!?!” rant. At least you’re in capable hands, especially now that Feinberg has made a full-time return to the kitchen, with that slow-food attention to ingredients intact (the couple also owns gourmet grocer Bklyn Larder down the street).

The small-scale sophistication of Marco’s—Italian aperitifs at a white-marble bar, Paul McCobb chairs pulled up to mahogany tables—has been traded for school auditorium seating, beer-and-shot combos, and card games at the ready, a fitting backdrop for brine-bomb bowls of mortadella and Parmigiano-Reggiano-stuffed fried olives ($6) and grilled cheese with Cabot clothbound cheddar and ricotta from the Larder ($9).

But a survey of the humble dining room confirms that everyone’s ordering Feinberg’s burger ($14, add cheese for a buck extra) and for good reason—it’s a thing of unfussed beauty: juicy, grass-fed beef kissed with wood-fired funk between a spare, toasted sesame-seed bun. The only other entrée-size option is the aggressively fatty but judiciously succulent pork chop ($23), sizzled on a spit and served with tangles of bitter greens.

That stunning chop notwithstanding, what Rose’s really is is an undemanding, play-to-the-plebes neighborhood bar that just happens to serve one of the best new burgers in New York. But one great burger does not a great restaurant make.

Written by
Christina Izzo

Details

Address:
295 Flatbush Ave
NY
11217
Cross street:
at Prospect Pl
Transport:
Subway: 2, 3 to Bergen St
Price:
Average entrée: $14. AmEx, MC, V.
Opening hours:
Mon, Tue 4–11pm; Wed–Sun 5–11pm
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