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Restaurants, Seafood Nolita
1 out of 5 stars
 (Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz)
Photograph: Paul WagtouiczCrispy fish tacos at Seamore's
 (Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz)
Photograph: Paul WagtouiczThe Reel Deal at Seamore's
 (Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz)
Photograph: Paul WagtouiczOh-boy Sandwich at Seamore's
 (Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz)
Photograph: Paul WagtouiczSeamore's
 (Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz)
Photograph: Paul WagtouiczSeamore's

Time Out says

1 out of 5 stars

Friendly warning! We're working hard to be accurate. But these are unusual times, so please check that venues remain open.

Michael Chernow has a knack for turning the unfashionable into white-hot hits. In 2010, with cofounder Daniel Holzman, Chernow launched the Meatball Shop on the Lower East Side, a quirky counter peddling the Sunday night nonna staple to an adversely well-heeled downtown clientele. Five years, six locations and legions of disciples later, the Meatball Shop has become a gentrification marker that your neighborhood dining has gone full-steam basic.

And what Chernow did for ground-beef spheres, he aims to replicate with Seamore’s, a white-washed, pastel-trimmed Nolita remake of old Montauk fish shacks, spotlighting underutilized species (monkfish, tilefish) from east-end outfits Dock to Dish and Sea to Table.

That’s a well and noble cause— if you could actually decipher what catch you’re eating. Stuffed into tough, leathery corn tortillas, spicy squid ($13) arrives aggressively sauced and accessorized—kale and apples and corn nuts, oh my!—dulling any traces of the mollusk’s delicate sweetness. It’s fried-fish cousin ($15), built recently with spiny dogfish, is similarly overcast, obscured by excessive battering and squiggles of guacamole and chipotle mayo. A ceviche of scallops ($13) smacks so hard of vinegary Tabasco and fried garlic it’s damn-near stomach turning.

The bulk of the menu is devoted to the Reel Deal ($21), a do-it-yourself spread of that day’s catch (porgy, hake), choice of sauce (red curry, a viscous miso brown butter) and sides such as salad-bar sesame soba noodles and wilted Chinese broccoli. But the simple, seared preparation of the fish here just makes a case for the rest of the menu’s zealous saucing—underseasoned and overcooked, squeaking harshly against tooth. Better stick to those meatballs.

By: Christina Izzo



Address: 390 Broome St
New York
Cross street: between Cleveland Pl and Mulberry St
Transport: Subway: J, Z to Bowery; 6 to Spring St
Price: Average dish: $15. AmEx, MC, V
Opening hours: Daily 5pm–midnight
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