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Review
Sushi Nakazawa was a bit of a revelation when its doors swung open in 2013. Chef Daisuke Nakazawa's arrival in New York brought a certain fervor, galvanizing diners with an apprenticeship under sushi legend Jiro Ono, which was thoroughly documented in Jiro Dreams of Sushi. Evidence that he learned much from his teacher, Nakazawa's edomae-style cuisine ushered in its own era of dining in New York, spawning countless counters that have yet to fall out of style.
Over a decade later, Sushi Nakazawa continues to do what it does best: coaxing out the true nature of the fish laid before you. Talented staff play with the temperature to create a chilled uni that doesn't so much melt as dissolve in the mouth. While pinky slices of grouper are gently dusted with lemon zest, that's so good it guarantees an eye-roll. If you struggle to get through 20-plus courses of buttery and bouncy scallops and cuts of medium to fatty salmon, you can always ask for less rice as the meal continues on. But if you end up swimming in stride, you can request your favorite cut at the finish line. Don't forget to save room for Nakazawa's tamago, which was perfected all those years ago.
Yes, the price has risen over the years (now $160 in the dining room, $190 at the counters), and the footprint expanded, with service spilling out into a side room and at a mini counter near the front. You can also find Sushi Nakazawa in other cities, including Washington, D.C. Still, growth aside, this one particular sushi den remains one of the finest in the city.
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