Last we saw Daisuke Nakazawa, he was toiling over egg custard as the modest apprentice in the film Jiro Dreams of Sushi, humbled by the rigors of an 11-year stint under the world’s most distinguished sushi chef, Jiro Ono. Now, the pupil has emerged as the teacher at this sleek West Village sushi bar. It looks like something out of a luxury car commercial, with black leather swivel chairs, sake sommeliers in tailored dark suits and a soundtrack of classical strings.
Whereas his master was stoic, Nakazawa is a jokester who places a live squirming shrimp on your plate just for a laugh. But his pranks don’t undercut the seriousness of his nigiri.
For his daily changing omakase, Nakazawa swiftly sets each of the 20 or so pieces on your plate in succession, drifting back to his post like Kobe Bryant swishing a fadeaway. The fewer the embellishments, the better, as with pike mackerel, featuring a gentle brininess that gives way to unctuous maritime fat as you chew, and wild yellowtail from Hokkaido, with fatty tails that tantalizingly overhang rice so tenderly packed, it would fall to pieces if you looked at it funny. At times, delicately flavored creatures like scallops or fluke are outstripped by pungent wasabi or yuzu. But the meal is like a wave, its gentle lulls rendering the crests all the more thrilling. One peak was a strip of hay-smoked skipjack, licked by the salty sea and haunted with smoke redolent of the finest ham.
|Venue name:||Sushi Nakazawa|
23 Commerce St
|Cross street:||between Bedford Ave and Seventh Ave South|
|Opening hours:||Daily 5–10:15pm|
|Transport:||Subway: 1 to Christopher St–Sheridan Sq|
|Price:||Omakase: $120, $150. AmEx, MC, V|
|Do you own this business?|
Average User Rating
5 / 5
- 5 star:3
- 4 star:0
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- 1 star:0
I've experienced dinner in their dining room twice; still trying to grab a reservation by the sushi bar. The omakase is delicious and very well presented by the wait staff. There is no rush to finish each plate, so be sure to savor each and every bite of the sushi. My favorites are the tamago and uni.
I was able to snatch up some reservations about two months after Sushi Nakazawa opened and was not disappointed. The sushi was so delicious, the rice was cooked perfectly (I am a sucker for great sushi rice), and his famous tamago was as good as expected. Definitely get a seat at the counter because the entire dining experience must include Nakazawa himself. He’s a bit of a jokester and also quite chatty. A big surprise during the meal was the hand roll. I don’t normally care for hand rolls, but this was the one that topped them all. I would eat it (or multiple) for a snack every day if I could.