If there’s one food group that New Yorkers are particularly protective of, it’s pizza, from whisper-thin cheap pizza slices to puffy Neapolitan rounds. Luckily, our beloved pies are in good hands with this year’s crop of new standout rounds, including the Roman tonda variety at Marta and a Mets-inspired za at GG’s.
This deck-oven–baked round from Bobby Hellen, a hit tip to the championship season of the chef’s beloved Mets, is a straight-up home run. Atop a char-and-chew crust, Hellen blends heat and sweet, layering spicy soppressata salami with a smattering of peppery arugula and the tangy one-two-punch of fennel agrodolce and pickled peppers. $15.
This salty-sweet round at husband-and-wife duo Emily and Matt Hyland’s wood-fired pizza emporium more than earns it eponym status. The bubbly, charred-just-right crust is hooded in creamy puddles of mozzarella—made in-house from Battenkill Valley dairy—and sottocenere, an Italian black-truffle cheese that imparts a delicate mushroom funk. A drizzle of honey and smattering of crushed pistachios add to the pizza’s earthiness. $19.
A California suburb may have influenced the name of Justin Smillie’s Gramercy project with Stephen Starr, but its most crave-worthy dish owes more to the Mediterranean coast than the West Coast. Atop a puffy crust that’s heftier than Neapolitan, Smillie—fresh off an acclaimed tenure at il Buco Alimentari e Vineria—layers on sweet tomato passata, soft, creamy stracciatella cheese and porky, spicy nubs of ‘nduja, a spreadable Calabrian sausage sparked with roasted hot red peppers. $19.