Untitled

Restaurants, Contemporary American Meatpacking District
3 out of 5 stars
4 out of 5 stars
(1user review)
 (Paul Wagtouicz)
1/6
Paul WagtouiczSpring-onion bacon tart at Untitled
 (Paul Wagtouicz)
2/6
Paul WagtouiczGrilled leeks at Untitled
 (Paul Wagtouicz)
3/6
Paul WagtouiczRaw fluke with radish at Untitled
 (Paul Wagtouicz)
4/6
Paul WagtouiczRoasted chicken at Untitled
 (Paul Wagtouicz)
5/6
Paul WagtouiczUntitled
 (Paul Wagtouicz)
6/6
Paul WagtouiczUntitled

Few words run a shiver of dread through the spine of a restaurant critic quite like museum restaurant. (Guy Fieri beats it by a hair.) They’re at best stately, at worst flippantly thoughtless, often sapped dry of personality or frosted with a gallery-like chill. Untitled—Danny Meyer’s glass-encased, Renzo Piano–designed dining room carved into the side of the recently relocated Whitney Museum—oddly falls somewhere in between.

The room is slightly dated but airy, with 30-foot ceilings, white-oak tabletops and cherry Saarinen cushion chairs that match the red straps on waiters’ aprons. The neutral-heavy minimalism keeps the gaze on Michael Anthony’s painterly plates, brushed with the focused seasonality the James Beard Award–winning chef is known for through his work at Gramercy Tavern.

If only the food delivered the wows of its looks. Flatbread mosaicked with sweet spring onion and nubby cubes of thick-cut bacon is plagued by an offputting layer of grease between bread and topping ($13), while a neat file of fluke slips colored with radish slices and sorrel leaves is overdressed with lime and salmon roe that tastes of fish, not freshness ($15). The experimental-sounding roasted-and-fried chicken ($24) ends up being a puny bird haphazardly adorned with frizzled fowl nuggets over snap peas and undercooked creamed kale.

But there is art to be had, and in a surprising form: a chocolate-chunk cookie ($8). Pastry chef Miro Uskokovic folds 72 percent dark, 38 percent milk and 31 percent white Guittard chocolate into the oven-warm round for a fudgy core encased inside a textbook-crisp, sea-salted hull. Served with a glass of Madagascan-bourbon-vanilla–infused milk, it’s a gorgeous display of the formal meeting the familiar, a meeting of the minds that pops up all too rarely at Untitled.

By: Christina Izzo

Posted:

Venue name: Untitled
Contact:
Address: 99 Gansevoort St
New York
10014
Cross street: at Washington St
Opening hours: Daily 11am-10pm.
Transport: Subway: L to Eighth Ave; A, C, E to 14th St
Price: Average entree: $24. AmEx, DC, Disc, MC, V.
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Average User Rating

4 / 5

Rating Breakdown

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  • 4 star:1
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  • 1 star:0
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The food here far exceeds anything you'd ever find at most museums, and is a good spot to swing by for a drink and bites (there's an array of apps), or a full sit-down meal. Good seasonal focus too.