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The antinaturalist deadpan auteur Richard Maxwell (The Evening) has spent more than two decades stripping away even the most basic theatrical comforts with his experimental-theater troupe, New York City Players. Their latest work—commissioned by NYU Skirball before the pandemic, and now presented as part of the Under the Radar Festival—uses a North Carolina restaurant as the starting point for an examination of food and human evolution. The cast includes NYCP regulars Jim Fletcher and Tory Vazquez.