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‘I love Paris in the winter, when it drizzles,’ crooned Ella Fitzgerald. ‘I love Paris in the summer, when it sizzles.’ The First Lady of Jazz may have had a taste for the French capital in all seasons, but anyone truly acquainted with the city knows that winter is when it comes into its own.
Parisians, who abandon their city en masse during its long hot August, have always had a special relationship with September’s la rentrée. In theory, it’s the ‘back to school’ season of pressed uniforms and new pencils, but it also represents a wider reinvigoration of intellectual and artistic life – leaves might be falling, but the city blooms into a fantastic array of cultural events that continues for months.
To get you started this autumn, here’s our pick of the 21 ultimate things to do in Paris.