With the recent wave of Michelin-starred restaurant closures casting a shadow over Singapore’s F&B scene, the 10th anniversary of Jaan by Kirk Westaway feels especially worth celebrating. Making it to a decade in Singapore’s cutthroat fine dining industry is no small feat. Yet Jaan continues to stand tall – literally, 70 floors above ground at Swissôtel The Stamford – and be at the top of its game.
With its latest summer menu (from $198 for lunch and $388 for dinner), available until October 11, it’s clear that Chef Kirk isn’t cruising. He’s still experimenting and evolving, and still deeply nostalgic about his childhood in Devon, which forms the crux of the inspiration behind everything at the restaurant.
British food has long been dragged through the mud, labelled bland, repetitive, even uninspiring. So Jaan’s brand of modern British cuisine might raise some eyebrows. But don’t knock it till you’ve tried it.
The menu opens with a quartet of snacks. The baby tomato tart balances freshness with a slightly creamy base of house-made ketchup sauce and marjoram. Goose mousse with celeriac, which is our favourite, is a sweet-savoury combination of goose and chicken liver pâté with a hint of jamminess. While not officially part of the tasting menu, a cheeky nod to fish and chips also makes an appearance in the form of the crispiest mini rosti slice topped with caviar.
I’m most looking forward to Chef Kirk’s famous charred leek and potato soup, a dish that defines comfort. It’s not mindblowing, but every element feels intentional. Though it appears decadent and heavy, the soup is surprisingly light, with perfectly roasted potato cubes that still have a bit of snap, and crushed macadamia and bacon bits for added texture. I’m told to sip it directly from the cup, which adds a tactile element to the whole thing – you feel the warmth in your hands, not just on your palate.
The bread and butter course, which frankly needs no introduction, is a spectacle of its own. Nothing is quite as satisfying as seeing those luscious quenelles of Devonshire butter decorated with lemon thyme leaves. These are served alongside a heaving loaf of baked dark rye batard roll and flaky sourdough layered buns.
The first course, English Garden, stuns with 30 kinds of summer vegetables. You could spend the whole time trying to count them all like I did (you won’t succeed), but it’s better to just marvel at how everything comes together. Each individual leaf, flower and stalk is painstakingly prepared – steamed, poached, blanched or roasted – to bring out its natural flavour. The dish pairs beautifully with a mineral-rich, aromatic Chenin Blanc, expertly recommended by Head Sommelier Bella Jankaew, winner of the Michelin Guide Singapore 2025 Sommelier Award.
Meanwhile, the violet artichoke course is a masterclass in texture. A silky base of confit hen’s egg yolk, artichoke custard and truffled vegetable sauce lets the main ingredient – crunchy slices of purple artichoke – really shine. On the side, Chef presents sticks of intensely buttered toast as a playful reference to eggs and soldiers, a common childhood breakfast in England.
With the red mullet, I find myself wondering again if this is another of Chef’s subtle nods to fish and chips. The skin is lightly crisped, with slices of courgette lined by the side and a bright red purée of red capsicum, suspiciously resembling ketchup, piped delicately at a corner.
In any case, this dish plays second fiddle to the Berkshire pork shoulder, the only meat course on the menu, making a brief but satisfying appearance. It’s a leaner cut for sure, but in no way dry or tasteless. In fact, there’s a distinct depth of flavour usually only found in aged meats, but instead, is achieved through marinating the pork in herbs for 12 hours, then slow-cooking and barbecuing it. Again, the team nails the wine pairing, with a Barbaresco that drinks well and isn’t overpowering with a non-fatty and hearty cut like shoulder.
The meal winds down with a modern take on a Georgian and Victorian era palate cleanser – gin and tonic with cucumber water ice and citrus fruits. Choose between a house-made non-alcoholic gin that tastes like the real deal or Roku for a classic option. But given the portion, I’d say skip it if you’re tight on stomach space. Save room for the petit fours instead. That blackberry and Amalfi lemon curd tart is excellent, but my vote goes to the garden mint chocolate, which makes for a brilliant and unexpectedly refreshing ending.
Find out more about Jaan by Kirk Westaway here.
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