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If you ask us where to find a Michelin-star meal that best represents Singaporean cuisine, there's really only one answer: Labyrinth. Since opening in 2014, Chef LG Han and his team have spent over a decade pushing the boundaries of what Singaporean food can look and taste like.
The fine-dining restaurant first made its name with its 'Neo-Sin' concept, serving playful, provocative plates that relied on visual illusions – in essence, 'what you see is not what you get'. In 2018, Chef Han turned his attention to Singapore-grown produce, building menus that were up to 80 percent locally sourced. And now, 12 years on, Labyrinth is due for another transformation.
While the space remains the same, gone are the playful theatrics and molecular gastronomy flourishes – don't expect to see the yellow makeshift hawker centre tables and Labyrinth-brand tissue packets for 'choping' anymore. The 2026 menu also focuses on using ingredients from across the world to create dishes that still retain the integrity and DNA of Singaporean cuisine. The question becomes: can something still feel unmistakably Singaporean when its ingredients come from all over the world?
We get some answers in dishes like Shima Aji, Oscietra Caviar. The inspiration here is yu sheng, and to achieve its bright, sweet and tart flavours, Chef Han makes the dressing with Korean sesame oil, a special type of honey from the Philippines derived from stingless bees and with a kombucha-like acidity, and watermelon.
Spaghettoni, Abalone is another standout. It is a nod to mee rebus, using a house-made rempah thickened with Japanese sweet potatoes and abalone liver sauce. Bawang goreng, tofu puffs, red and green bird's eye chillies, and a squeeze of sudachi (Japanese citrus) add more familiar layers to the mix. Sliced South African abalone crowns the plate, and we think it is a smart move to add bits of abalone trimming to the sauce for more texture. Our only two gripes: the pasta could be a tad more al dente, and the sauce lacks the sharp sting of fresh green chilli that is so synonymous with mee rebus.
The new seasonal soup course draws references from sup tulang and beef sinigang. Oxtail and beef bones are simmered in a 10-spice blend to achieve a deep, aromatic broth, completed with a drop of Kampot peppercorn oil from Cambodia. It is served with an oxtail mandu, inspired by Chef Han's recent trips to Korea where he took part in cooking shows like Chef & My Fridge.
Even congee gets reinvented. Kabu, or Japanese turnip, is preserved and blended into a pasty, porridge-like texture, as a replacement for rice. Tiny turnip bits are stirred into the mix for some crunch, with a house-cured quail century egg – jammy, rich and delicious – as the final touch.
Of course, some things stay the same. The indulgent coffee brioche remains on the menu, as do the iconic Labyrinth chicken rice and kaya toast meringue.
Chef Han also brings back his famed chilli crab ice cream for the first time in years, dubbed "My First Chilli Crab v2014". Think Bikini Bottom on a plate, seaweed strewn all over, 'crumbs' doubling up as sand, and Mr. Krabs (read: soft-shell crab) fried, front and centre of the plate. The whole thing looks like a throwback to the molecular gastronomy and deconstructed food craze of the 2010s. The ice cream itself is as good as we remember, though – the team have got the temperature, texture, and sweet-savoury flavour perfected to a tee.
The drinks programme deserves a mention too. Like the food, it's become more global. Instead of sticking to familiar regions, the alcoholic pairing spotlights small-batch producers, with an increasing number of Chinese labels on the menu, Iranian wines and even Junmai Daiginjo-style sake produced in Singapore.
Overall, the 2026 Labyrinth is less whimsical, more poised and more restrained – a result of evolving diner tastes and preferences. Some will welcome the change. Others, us included, will miss a little of the old mischief. After all, its location within Esplanade, Singapore's performing arts hub, and its Black Box-esque interiors, set the stage for a sprinkle of theatrics and food that doesn't take itself too seriously. Still, there is no denying the quality of what's on the plate. This is Labyrinth at its most mature, globally-minded, technically precise and confident. And if you want more of the fun stuff, well, there's Milli Sky Dining & Bar, Chef Han's newest restaurant, which is just a 10-minute walk away.
Labyrinth is located at 8 Raffles Avenue, Esplanade Mall, #02-23, Singapore 039802. Opening hours are Wednesday to Thursday, 6.30pm to 11pm, and Friday to Sunday, noon to 2.30pm and 6.30pm to 11pm.
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