Paraphrase: A tiny 8-seater in Fortune Centre with great grilled dishes and even better sake

At Paraphrase, grilled dishes, natural wines and nama sake (unpasteurized sake) go hand in hand, without any particular cuisine underpinning them. And despite the relatively niche concept, people are lapping it up, from discerning gourmets to casual foodies. The pocket-sized, eight-seater spot, which is part of a vibrant and revived F&B ecosystem in Fortune Centre, is fully packed during our visit on a Friday night. 

Standing behind the counter is chef-owner Tan Boon Kuang (BK), Le Cordon Bleu-trained and previously part of the kitchen teams at Salt Grill & Sky Bar and Meatsmith. The pandemic saw him hopping around between private dining projects and side gigs, before he finally set up his own space in 2023. Enter Paraphrase. The casual bistro began with a tasting format similar to his private dining concept, but soon evolved into an à la carte menu to keep pace with shifting dining habits. Paraphrase also switches things up with the occasional four-hands dinner or tasting menu pop-ups, collaborating with the likes of Folkyard, Flip and Middle Child. 

Expect a Chef's Table-style layout, with an L-shaped table as the centrepiece and a blackboard by the side highlighting daily specials. BK informs us that the menu changes every quarter, while pot pies and desserts are swapped out every month. Dishes also vary day to day depending on the produce he has on hand and what his team dreams up in the kitchen, often inspired by food they've tried during their travels. All this means that no two visits to Paraphrase will be the same – even so-called 'mainstays' like the chicken skewers, Hamachi collar, steak frites and pork ribs get updated on the go.

We start things off with a summery pet nat recommended by BK, followed by a delicate starter of grilled scallops ($32) over a bed of edamame-spinach cream. Fine shavings of Parmigiano and yuzu kosho add funk and flavour, and the tobiko ties it all together. The grilled octopus dish ($42) is a mishmash of Spanish and Indian cooking, taking two tapas essentials – pulpo (octopus) and padron peppers – and serving them over tomato chutney, curry leaves still in tow. While the peppers could do with more time on the grill, the octopus is cooked perfectly, and the addition of fried garlic crisps is a nice touch. Then there's the lamb rump ($28), typically not your first choice when it comes to cuts, but this one in particular is stellar: each slice sufficiently tender, devoid of gameyness and well-seasoned, resting over a bed of homemade pesto. 

Our sense is that BK takes a more intuitive approach with the food at Paraphrase and a more intentional one with the drinks programme. That's not to say drinks play a bigger role – sometimes the food leads, and sometimes the wine or sake does. But there are definitely no Coke cans or soda guns here. The focus is really on spotlighting small producers and encouraging their guests to try something different. 

The sake list, though compact, is both fascinating and informative, with footnotes at the bottom to guide beginners through unfamiliar terms. The driest of the lot, Shinomine Kimoto ($18 per glass), is crisp and clean, ideal for pairing across most dishes. Akishika Tasanshu ($22 per glass), on the other hand, leans rich and layered, offering honeyed notes with a ricey depth that makes it a pleasure to sip on its own. Those after something bolder might try the Akishika Motoshibori ($24 per glass), an unapologetically funky brew with mirin and vinegary undertones – "aged apples your mother keeps in the fridge", as BK jokes. And for something sweeter, the Dohkan Fujikura ($24 per glass) is aromatic, perfume-like and pairs excellently with seafood.

READ MORE:

Six Hands opens third outlet in Paragon, bringing balanced, flavour-forward bowls to Orchard

Japan’s Sushidan comes to Singapore with $1.99 Edomae-style sushi and $19.90 omakase sets

Cafés in Singapore with great ambience, coffee and food, recommended by Time Out