Hidden in plain sight along the streets of Telok Ayer is a modern steakhouse that offers a truly unique dining experience that showcases unusual cuts of beef and meats sourced from award-winning farms. Escape from the city bustle and enter a calm alluring space that’s adorned with classy industrial ornaments, dark teal velvet and leather seats.
Helming the kitchen is Executive Chef Victor Loy – formerly Fat Belly Social Steakhouse fame – who seeks to pay homage to early 1900s grand steakhouse culture from the far West while keeping up with the contemporary diner’s palate through an emphasis on food provenance.
To kickstart the exploratory experience, familiar starters come in bold and funky combinations. The redolent Bone Marrow ($32) is topped with house-smoked sweet Hokkigai clams and a bright garlic gremolata for a flavoursome punch when laid atop an airy slice of sourdough.
But if like us, veering towards the adventurous end of the menu is just another walk in the park, try the Breaded Pig’s Head ($18) – a tribute to local favourite kway chap. Expect delicate slow-braised pig’s head meat cheekily disguised in an unassuming crisp nugget form and paired with a light creamy preserved lemon ranch-style dip. Another starter not to be missed is the Spicy Crispy Pig's Ear ($17). Feast on addictive strips of crispy fried pig’s ear liberally dusted with gochugaru and kimchi spice served with house pickles and moreish garlic emulsion.
Perfect for communal dining, the glorious steak mains showcase large-format meats apportioned and simply charcoal grilled to best retain the integrity of the specific cut’s natural characteristics. If your idea of an epic meal includes tender meats with intensely rich beefy flavours, this hefty 30 Days Dry Aged Galician Vintage MS 2/4 Prime Rib ($280) is definitely the crème de la crème.
FUN FACT Free-range dairy cows with a strict grass-only diet and a maturation period of at least 60 months develop deeper flavours which are often exponentially tastier.
Other featured unusual cuts are the prized Rib Cap aka butcher’s butter with its luxurious marbling and subtle umami characteristic. While the Zabuton is an increasingly popular tender cut with a touch of funk that yields only three to four kilograms per cattle.
Served up with a medley of complementary sauces such as the briny scampi butter, a refreshing salsa verde, and a classic tangy Choron, which we thought were all great but we reckon even with just humble sea salt will satisfy even the most discerning of steak lovers.
Of course, the whole shebang isn’t complete without classic hearty steakhouse sides but Meadesmoore certainly ain’t some regular cowboy. Serving up an unapologetic riff on the classic Caesar salad is the sharp and punchy Spinach salad ($16), alongside earthy smoke-kissed Maitake mushrooms ($16) that are garnished with shaved salted egg yolk and piquant brown mustard jus.
Chef Victor’s playful take on a gratinated Mac & Cheese ($18) sets out to surprise as he replaced the typical macaroni with casarecce, a ridged pasta that holds on to more of that elegantly robust cheese sauce. Flexing a four-cheese blend of Bleu, Grana Padano, Mozzarella, and a seasonal variety, plus a blanket of freshly grated truffle for that touch of opulence, this is perhaps one of the best versions we’ve come across.
Leave no stone unturned as you round off your meal with a modest curation of artful desserts. Savour on the artful Eton Mess ($16) with hints of sweet cherry, lychee and rose meringue or our favourite, the irresistible Fat Belly’s Tiramisu which boasted bittersweet hints of roasty coffee blend.
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