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28Wilkie

Restaurants Rochor
2 out of 5 stars
28Wilkie
1/4
28Wilkie
2/4
28Wilkie
3/4
28Wilkie
4/4
Photo: Bengohstudio

Time Out says

2 out of 5 stars

Friendly warning! We're working hard to be accurate. But these are unusual times, so please check that venues remain open.

28WilKie quietly opened late last year, flying under everyone’s radar. It’s only through word of mouth that I found out that there’s a new caviar bar in town. But instead of pairing caviar with its usual mates of vodka and Russian cuisine, 28Wilkie deals in fine wine, Shangri-La craft beer and Italian-Japanese fusion food.

While 28Wilkie feels very much like a fine dining restaurant with its elegant interior and white tablecloths, I can’t shake the feeling that it hasn’t decided what kind of restaurant it wants to be. There are café-style truffle fries ($16) and devilled eggs ($16) on the menu alongside more refined dishes like onion confit risotto with unagi ($28) in the primi section and crisp-skinned red snapper with green pea purée ($32) in the secondi. But despite their creativity, the fusion dishes lack the complexity that’s needed to marry East and West.

Even more confusing is the caviar bar concept: 28Wilkie only brings in only five types of roe, ranging from the affordable Siberian sturgeon ($130/tin) to the prized Kaluga sturgeon ($400/tin). Yet for a caviarfocused restaurant, the black pearls only make cameos in two dishes: the Hokkaido scallops ($32) and egg with potato mousse ($28). Neither allows the diner to really take in the flavours – you’re better off forking out for the full tin. 

Time Out Singapore reviews anonymously and pays for all meals. Read our restaurant review policy here.

What the stars mean:
★ Poor ★ ★ Promising ★★★ Good ★★★★ Very good ★★★★★ Exceptional 

Details

Address: #01-01
28 Wilkie Rd
Singapore
228051
Contact:
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 3-10.30pm
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