The Coconut Club welcomes a sister restaurant above its Beach Road digs – and no, it’s not plates of ayam goreng berampah it’s selling, but a whole new concept: ‘new-gen’ Singaporean cuisine. The term might invite some initial scepticism, but Chef Marcus Leow (formerly of Naked Finn and Magic Square) and his team are quick to quell it. Simply come wide-eyed and open-minded, and don’t expect to see jazzed-up laksa, glorified chicken rice, or anything of the sort.
Instead, the kitchen works with disparate flavours, obscure and long-forgotten ingredients, and a whole lot of creativity to whip up dishes that are noticeably Singaporean, yet delightfully foreign. We like the grilled firefly squid salad, where the iconic pairing of dark soy sauce and jambu in rojak is enhanced with briny – if slightly funky – firefly squid, strawberries, and kailan. The usually viscous hae gor (prawn paste) is also reworked into a golden, syrupy caramel that’s lighter on the palate.
For dinner (four courses, $88 per person), a sharing course of crispy meesua is served among a spread of other oddball condiments. You’ve got the doughy pancakes, heavily deep-fried, and to pair: a heap of batang otah paste, fermented soy sauce with gula melaka, and a zesty salad with gado-gado and pineapple dressing.
Whether you’re dining in for lunch (two courses, $58 per person) or dinner, you’re due to make the same tough decision on the main course: nasi ulam with grilled seasonal fish, or beef short rib satay with The Coconut Club’s signature coconut rice? And yes, fried chicken in yellow curry, we see you, but if it’s your first time here, the ulam and short ribs are simply too good to pass up.
Our pick is the former, where Japanese rice, steamed in fish bone dashi, is then wok-fried in sambal belado and belachan, and finally grilled in banana leaves. The parcel is unwrapped at your table, where you’re greeted with aromatic wafts of freshly cooked grains. Don’t be surprised to find yourself scraping up every last bit – the herbaceous additions of ulam raja, ginger flower, and laksa leaves make it all too easy to do so.
The vibe
Belimbing sits on the second floor of a restored shophouse, and like its sister restaurant downstairs, it’s decked out in rattan for a homely, distinctly Singaporean feel. The centrepiece is a sweeping charcoal wall mural, hand-drawn by local artist Dawn Ang (also known as Aeropalmics). And despite serving a course menu, there’s nothing stiff or tight-collared about the space.
The food
Uncanny Singaporean flavours woven into out-of-pocket creations – all of which are undeniably delicious.
The drink
The restaurant’s namesake drink, Belimbing, ($12) is an easy favourite, featuring starfruit, green apple, and galangal. The cocktail list also sees three exclusive tipples ($21 each) crafted by Side Door’s resident mixologist Bannie Kang. Away from the Maxwell bar, this is where you can sample her signature clarified style in drinks like the Sambal Marg or Pandan Colada.
Time Out tip
Desserts aren’t included in the course menu, but don’t sleep on table favourites like the pumpkin bingka with white miso ice cream ($14), or the corn salat, served with corn tea on the side ($14). There are also seven a la carte additions available for lunch, if find yourself hungry for more.