Amidst the bustling streets of Lima, Peru lies a culinary treasure that’s been simmering for over a century. Chifa is a fusion of Chinese and Peruvian cuisine – a celebration of two distinctive yet complementary flavours, cultures and histories.
It tells the tale of immigrants who arrived in Peru from the southern Chinese province of Guangdong in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, bringing with them a wealth of culinary knowledge and experience that has been adapted and embraced by Peruvians.
Chifa might have been a lesser-known cuisine in Singapore but that’s about to change. Join us as we delve into the past, present and future of Chifa – and why you should pay close attention to this mouth-watering cuisine. We also spoke to Peruvian chef, Rodrigo Serrano, who will be headlining the opening of Chifa!, a trendy new Peruvian-Chinese restaurant in Singapore.
The wok that crossed the Pacific Ocean
The origins of Chifa can be traced back to Cantonese cuisine – yes, those same familiar flavours we know and love from our favourite Hong Kong eateries. Cantonese cuisine is best known for its emphasis on fresh ingredients, the sparing use of seasoning and of course, putting everything together with the breath of the wok.
Chifa also borrows from Hakka cuisine, known for its healthier dishes cooked with less oil, and other influences including the Shanghainese use of soy sauce and oyster sauce, and the spice-centric Sichuanese use of herbs, ginger, garlic, and star anise.
But Chifa is not just a cuisine, it is a story of adaptation and the search for a sense of belonging. It is a reflection of how the flavours of a faraway land found a new home in the hearts and stomachs of a nation, and how that nation, in turn, has embraced it with open arms.
And if you were wondering why Chifa sounds like the Chinese saying Chi Fan – which translates to eat – it’s because it is. “Chifa was further adapted by descendants of the Chinese born in Peru, also known as Tusan,” shares Serrano. “As it grew in popularity, the cuisine style continued to evolve, with new dishes and techniques being developed. For instance, woks became widely used in Chifa kitchens by the early 20th century since they allowed for stir-frying which is now synonymous with the cuisine.”
An epic stir fry of two cultures
Chifa's Cantonese influence is immediately apparent in its quintessential dishes like Lomo Saltado, a comforting stir fry of marinated beef sirloin strips, fried potatoes, tomatoes, colourful chilli peppers, onions, and soy sauce. In Peru, it's traditionally served with steamed rice, but at Chifa!, Chef Serrano puts his spin on this classic dish, stuffing the hearty mix into a spring roll – a snack that all Singaporeans will love.
Live seafood is another familiar sight in Chifa restaurants. Again, the Cantonese influence is palpable with fresh fish steamed whole with a harmony of chopped garlic, chill and black bean sauce. Serrano honours the locally sourced tiger grouper fish in two other contrasting expressions: the traditional Peruvian style, roasted in sudado sauce and wrapped in bijao leaf, or the punchy Sichuan style, spiked with spicy chopped pickled jalapenos and dried chillies.
However, the poster child of Chifa is undoubtedly Arroz Chaufa, which translates to fried rice – a humble dish that every Asian holds close to their heart. Chef Serrano's modern take on seafood fried rice is a tribute to his childhood memories. He combines the textures of quinoa with fluffy jasmine rice, tosses in seasonal vegetables (mainly colourful peppers, mushrooms and onions) and fresh seafood, and sautés it all with a moreish XO sauce. "This is one of my personal favourites and is commonly enjoyed in Peruvian homes," says Serrano.
Not feeling rice? There’s also Tallarin Saltado, a stir-fried noodle dish that occasionally sees Chinese yellow egg noodles substituted with spaghetti instead. But Serrano’s version sticks to egg noodles and pairs it with roasted duck, snow peas, bean sprouts and peppers to give texture to each bite.
Going global like Pisco
Today, Chifa has become a celebrated part of Peru’s identity, and it shows in the sheer number of Chifa restaurants in Lima alone, with over 6000 establishments. In comparison, New York City, a hub for Chinese cuisine, recorded just under 2500 operating Chinese restaurants in 2019.
And just like Pisco, the national spirit of Peru, Chifa is also gaining global traction. In neighbouring countries like Brazil, Chifa is so beloved that there is an annual multi-city food festival called the "Festival da Comida China" dedicated to showcasing it. In some parts of Europe, like Madrid, where many Peruvians call home, foodies flock to Chifa restaurants like Cafetería Lily for a taste of the unique fusion flavors sold at affordable prices.
“Globalization connects and exposes people to other cultures with rich heritages that involve food," shares Serrano. As a native Peruvian from Lima, he hopes to introduce this distinctive cuisine to a wider audience in the region, and he is confident that Singaporean foodies will appreciate and enjoy the complex flavours and textures of Chifa cuisine.
A newfound sense of comfort in familiarity
After trying Chifa for the first time, we were struck by both its familiarity and novelty. While the flavours, textures, and techniques of Chifa cuisine draw heavily from its Chinese origins, the addition of Peruvian ingredients like native tubers, corn, and chilli provides a refreshingly novel perspective on dishes we thought we knew well.
From munching on salty canchita corn kernels to experiencing the tingly spice of aji chilli on our tongues, every bite was a unique cultural exchange that is best enjoyed in the company of friends and family. And if the flavours prove to be overwhelming, simply sip on a refreshing Pisco Sour. You can’t ever go wrong with that.
