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Vertigo 26
Photograph: Vertigo 26

A sound problem: How the no-music rule is affecting restaurants and bars in Singapore

Chefs and owners chime in on the quiet issue afflicting the F&B landscape

Fabian Loo
Written by
Fabian Loo
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Silence.

What was once a bustling and buzzy dining-out scene has since been hushed and muted. As part of ongoing safe distancing measures, recorded background music, together with live performances and video screenings, are not allowed to be played in food and beverage (F&B) establishments. According to the Ministry of Health, the restrictions are put in place to help reduce the risk of transmissions from diners having to talk loudly and project their voice. 

The absence of tunes might sound like a small trade-off, but many chefs and F&B owners are concerned that the quietness will inevitably soften the attractiveness of on-premises dining. “Music sets the mood and ambience of a place,” shares Eric Chan, the founder of new vinyl restaurant and bar Vertigo 26. “It also helps provide a more comfortable dining experience.” 

Music and mealtimes have long shared a harmonious relationship. Research has found that in most cases, high-pitched notes are related to tastes of sweet and sour, bitterness is associated with a lower pitch, and legato sounds help convey creaminess. And according to a published study, the Psychology of Music, food intake can be influenced by auditory stimulation in one of two ways: slow tempo beats might influence diners to stay longer, while loud, thumping tunes can encourage more alcohol consumption. 

But what about the effects of removing music altogether? “Noise from the open kitchen, air-conditioning, neighbouring tables, and even the exhaust system becomes much more pronounced,” shares chef Remy Lefebvre of Casa Restaurant. “Without music, it feels as if something is missing.”

An immersive tune
Photograph: Firangi Superstar

An immersive tune

Music-led dining concepts are particularly affected by the quiet. Vertigo 26 is designed as a gathering for audiophiles; the organic tunes and warm sounds from its 1,000-strong vinyl collection was supposed to accompany its menu of food and cocktails.

To get around the rule, the space functions as a retail shop from noon to 5pm, during which sounds can be played as usual. But when the dining room opens in the evening, the room is filled with people and silence instead. “It is unfortunate that our patrons are not able to experience the warm analogue sound from our turntable, played back through a vintage JBL speaker system,” adds Eric. “Music is something that you never knew how much you will miss until it’s no longer around.” 

Over at Firangi Superstar, the restaurant is dressed like a movie set to help transport people into its whimsical, India-inspired world. The transportive journey, however, is marred by the lack of soundtracks.

Co-owner Michael Goodman weaves an example: “Have you ever watched a movie with no sound and just used the subtitles? It is like watching a movie without music or sound effects – diners are more acutely aware of what is going on around them, so they are not as immersed, engaged, and connected.”

New chords 
Photograph: Wild Child Pizzette

New chords 

To fill the vacuum left behind by the no-music rule, some restaurants have made tweaks to their hardware and interior, while others started jazzing up customer interactions to bolster the experience.

Wooden baffles have been specially installed into the ceiling of The Cicheti Group’s latest concept, Wild Child Pizzette. The structures aid in the acoustics of the cosy space, which is especially helpful when the crowds pour in.

A pair of Devialet speakers are also put in place, ready to blast a curated playlist by local music director Hasnor Sidik, or Mr Has, whenever the restrictions lift. The intention was to have hip-hop influences complement the Keith Haring-inspired interior. “To anyone who just walks into our pizzeria, it’s music that immediately sets a vibe,” notes restauranteur Liling Ong. But for now, the songs can be accessed through a QR code that accompanies each take-out order instead.

Others are relying on conversations to spark connections with diners. Interactions help “maintain the energy” at Casa Restaurant, and similarly at Restaurant Gaig, director Núria Gibert notes that “engaging guests help to break the silence, and makes them feel more welcome.” 

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Sound off
Photograph: Level33

Sound off

Almost all the F&B operators spoken to echo a similar sentiment: that the music ban is harsh, and uncalled for. 

Level33’s managing director Martin Bém feels like that is no substitute for background music. The resulting environment is an unconducive one. “How eerie it feels to enter a silent restaurant,” he notes. He believes low-decibel, background tunes should be allowed. “[Ambient music] simply creates a certain atmosphere for the dining experience,” he adds. 

In a joint letter to the government sent on August 10 2021, over 850 members from the F&B industry – Savefnbsg, Singapore Cocktail Bar Association, and the Singapore Nightlife Business Association – called for the lift in background music curbs. They say: “Counter-intuitively, the lack of privacy between groups with no music has resulted in louder conversations and borderline inter-mingling amongst groups of strangers.” 

Allowing soft, background music only serves to promote a more enjoyable meal, and reinvigorate the battered F&B scene. Núria from Restaurant Gaig puts it poignantly: “People are feeling fatigued from the many rounds of changing measures and restrictions, and dining at restaurants is one of the limited pleasures they can still indulge in.”

“As a restaurateur, I feel sad and regretful that sometimes I am unable to offer the ideal ambience that gives my guests the best experience for a perfect meal.”

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