Are things finally looking up in Singapore’s fine dining world? Amidst a dry spell in the F&B scene where closures outpace exciting new openings, the debut of mod-Spanish restaurant Sugarra offers a welcome glimmer of hope.
For those familiar with Basque Kitchen, Sugarra is the reincarnation of the Michelin-starred restaurant which shuttered in 2023, dressed up several notches. The mastermind behind both concepts is Chef Aitor Jeronimo Orive. But in his absence – the chef is mostly based in Melbourne – it’s his trusted Chef de Cuisine Aitor Gonzalez who takes charge of the kitchen.
Northern Spain and the Basque Country are Chef Aitor Jeronimo’s main sources of inspiration, but his dishes also tap into the wider culinary landscape of the region, with sprinkles of personal memories here and there.
Perhaps understanding that the vast majority of diners might not know Spanish cuisine beyond paella and gambas, he chooses to start the meal with the tapitas, a show-stopping spread of eight bite-sized tapas representing different regions of Spain. Look out for signatures like the green spinach tart with pine nuts and crispy garlic, as well as the 45-day aged Galician beef tartare and egg confit sandwiched between flatbread.
Next, the traditional Spanish omelette is reimagined as layers of confit potato, sabayon and potato ‘espuma’ in the Tortilla de Patatas. Topped with luxurious shavings of black truffle, this comforting dish is an easy favourite. The bread course impresses as well, with milk buns and rye loaves paired with whipped butter and the restaurant’s proprietary extra virgin olive oil, made with olives handpicked by Chef Aitor himself in Rioja, Spain. The subtle notes of apples and hazelnuts are what make all the difference.
If you’re splashing out on the Experience tasting menu ($288 per person), it’s at this point of the meal where everything departs from the traditional menu ($148 for four courses, $198 for six courses). Relish a final burst of zest and fruitiness with the Remolacha – beetroot tartare and salad – because you’re in full savoury zone from here on till desserts.
Bomba rice, Catalan stew, charcoal-grilled txuleta – Chef Aitor aims to serve them all. You’ve got short-grain rice stewed in a robust seafood stock and topped with a mix of stuffed squid and firefly squid. Meanwhile, the seafood stew transports you straight up north of Barcelona to Catalonia, rivalling the original in depth and richness, with deep-sea Alfonsino fish lending umami to each mouthful. If anything, having the two dishes in succession can prove a little too intense.
Things start to round off here, but of course, no Spanish feast is complete without txuleta. Sugarra’s version is charcoal-grilled over a Josper grill, and though aged for 45 to 60 days, it’s surprisingly devoid of any overpowering funk, ideal for pairing with heavier accompaniments like the smoked garlic mousseline. Texture-wise, it’s firm yet yielding, and baby gem lettuce comes on the side for an added crunch.
Chef Aitor surprises with a tropical coconut dessert – inspired by his childhood but also fitting for Singapore’s heat. Coconut flesh and coconut water gel provide a much-needed cooler from the heavy courses, and you’ll even find toppings of sago pearls for a local touch. Alternatively, you’ll be served the bergamot sorbet with freeze-dried yoghurt, and the chocolate parfait with cherry sorbet and an airy chocolate sponge.
A meal at Sugarra consumes both your time and your senses. Once you’ve gotten past its less-than-convenient location in Sentosa and eye-watering price tag, you’re all set to embrace the ambitious celebration of Spanish cuisine that it is.
The vibe
Elegant and exuberant. The entrance is lined with a wall display showcasing glowing vials of olive oil – they’re real, by the way – and you’re first led to a sleek bar area for a shot of gazpacho before your meal begins at the lush dining room. The best seats are those beside the tinted glass panels next to the kitchen, where you get to watch the chefs scurry around in cinematic fashion.
The food
An extensive journey across Northern Spain and the Basque Country with dashes of personal memories in between. Chef Aitor Jeronimo’s modern take on Spanish cuisine is not all flourish, however, with some dishes leaning strongly traditional with comforting, hearty flavours.
The drink
Sugarra houses over 750 labels of wines, including rare and special vintages. Pairings are available at an $88 top-up for the four-course menu, $128 for the six-course meal, and $188 for nine courses.
Time Out tip
Set aside at least three hours or more for the entire experience, and be sure to factor in travel time since the restaurant is located deep within Resorts World Sentosa in Hotel Michael.