Summerlong

In the expat haven of Robertson Quay, where boozy weeknights tumble into lazy weekends, a restaurant built on ‘chill beachside vibes’ seems obligatory. And with this Mediterranean-leaning small plates joint from the folks behind Neon Pigeon, the neighbourhood finally gets what it deserves – never mind that it’s miles from sea.

The decor checks off all the boxes you’d expect: it’s open-air, sunlight-drenched and with enough rattan, bamboo, and burlap to be mistaken for a BritishIndia outlet. Located on the banks of the Singapore River, the space is designed for whiling away hours in. Which, given the well-executed dishes, won’t be a problem.

Ordering the char-grilled octopus ($19) is a no-brainer. Summerlong’s version is smoky, slick with honey, and paired with thick parsnip chips that resemble the seafood in both appearance and sweetness. The black cod ($25) is another standout: perfectly pan-fried, with fried capers and Tuscan kale that add crunch to the dish. Not all the seafood works, though. A petite bowl of steamed mussels ($21), swimming in a spicy broth alongside crumbles of lamb sausage, is too clumsy to justify its price tag.

And that, unfortunately, sums up Summerlong. Here’s a solid, easygoing restaurant whose dishes are good, but not spectacular enough to warrant a return visit.