Bang smack off one of Bondi’s busiest side streets sits a twinkling, festoon-lit laneway where you can discover the closest thing to a European piazza that this sun-soaked slice of Sydney has ever seen.
There, sitting pretty beside the casual, coastal warehouse space where chef Orazio D’Elia kick started his career, you will find his latest gift to this iconic beachside suburb - Ori’s Bar.
A salmon-pink painted, cocktail-cart-and-juke-joint, this neighbourhood nook is a relaxed, unpretentious, drink and dine space, channelling long and lazy Italiano summers.
Offering friendly table-side service to just 30 walk-in guests, and tucked well away from the chaos of the beach’s main drag, Ori’s bar feels almost like D’Elia’s living room - the perfect spot to settle in for an evening and enjoy the vibes being well and truly in your own hands.
Take your pick of the 80s disco bangers thoughtfully pre-loaded into the retro music machine, then sink comfortably into one of the many cane lounges, scattered with fat, feather cushions and super-soft throws.
Once there you can confidently make the big decisions - Aperol Spritz or Negroni? Then, which delicious bar snacks from the eponymous restaurant, Da Orazio, next door?
Perhaps, you too, would feel it rude not to kick things off with the owner’s namesake cocktail, ‘Orazio’, combining vodka, sweet watermelon, handmade limoncello, fresh mint and cucumber. Don’t be fooled into thinking this pink vodka concoction will be overly sweet or ‘girly’, it packs quite the boozy punch and is perfectly balanced with refreshing citrus.
Beef tart-tartare is spiked with flavour, served in a shortcrust pastry shell and topped with trout pearls, creme fraiche and chives. Nice little twist on presentation, and the caviar is a delightfully fresh, light alternative to the traditional anchovy umami bomb.
Definitely do yourself a favour and get the Prosciutto Crocchette Reggiano with aioli. Silky smooth prosciutto peppered bechamel, encased in a crispy golden shell, it’s a classic, executed very, very well.
Stuzzichini, a thoroughly enjoyable prelude to pizza and antipasti, offers a break in courses and the opportunity for more cocktails and a venue ‘vibe check’. The idea that anyone can DJ is more than a little frightening, however it’s going remarkably well. Dolly Parton, Abba, Madonna, Billy Idol - it’s strictly throwbacks and it works.
Sbagliato is the perfect aperitivo for those that would prefer a Negroni to be slightly less bitter and a tad bubblier. A happy little accident born by a bartender who mistakenly used prosecco instead of gin, it’s given a finishing spritz from a ferrari red soda syphon at the table - perfecto.
Vitello Tonnato ‘Our way’ is a deliciously modern take on the traditional Piedmontese Veal in Tuna Sauce, that respectfully honours the dish’s roots but with a few cheeky twists.
A dirty gin Martini at this point seems a fabulous idea, however the inclusion of Kalamata olives opposed to Sicilian Castelvetrano, perhaps, make this dirty drink downright filthy - but not in the way (I, personally) would have liked. Admittedly this writer is an unabashed Martini purist, but throwing a wild Kalamata card out there is on brand, since Orazio has put his own spin on everything else served, just not as successfully on this one occasion.
Finally, don’t you dare even consider skipping pizza. The dough is made using the ‘Biga’ method which combines a pre-ferment starter and a heavily hydrated dough, to yield a puffy base which is then fired to crispy, charred perfection in the traditional Neapolitan wood-fired oven.
Schiacciatina is a shining example of unadulterated simplicity. Thin pizza dough runs rampant with light, charry air bubbles and is served with a generous dollop of featherlight whipped ricotta. Tear and scoop your way to creamy, carby bliss.
Wrapped up with a Braulio Amaro or one of the many variations of Espresso Martini, Ori’s Bar is a lively little addition to the East and well worth visiting.
