Time Out says
When you think all-star restaurants
you don’t necessarily think Quay
– Sydney’s most underrated fine
diner. And why would you? Peter
Gilmore gets none of the press some
of Sydney’s more celebrated chefs
receive, nor does he chase it. You
don’t see him with his own line of
salt, mayonnaise or smoked salmon
and he certainly doesn’t do airline
food. But for nine years, Gilmore’s
food has been unique: imaginative,
beautiful and delicate – each brush
stroke perfectly executed, beauty colliding
with flavour and lightness and
texture triumphing over protein, carb
and bulk. In person and on the plate,
the man’s an artist.
Gilmore makes the little things
count. Edible fl owers, grown especially
for the restaurant, are placed
carefully around two figs carved
down to their deep scarlet core. In
their company are two bright green
raw pistachios and a cigar of thin
pastry enclosing a matchstick of
light, smoky goat’s curd performing
a balancing act on top. It tastes just
as good as it looks.
Elsewhere, a mix of pink and
white radishes the size of fi ve cent
coins are scattered around pieces of
twice-poached quail breast topped
with rippled sheets of milk skin.
This dish is more about the texture
than anything else – it quickly melts
on the tongue while the radishes add
pepper to the butter-soft quail.
Since Quay’s old multicoloured
carpet has been replaced with a rich
aubergine, it’s no longer like dining
in a Gold Coast nightclub with the
lights on and has become a beautiful
room showcasing views of the
harbour from every seat in the house.
Floor-to-ceiling windows guarantee
that no matter where you are in the
room you’ll be able to look at the
Opera House, Bridge and ferries
chugging along through the harbour.
And if you can swing it, the tables
at the very front of the room make
you feel like you could topple straight
into the swim. Very Sydney.
Perhaps the most interesting dish
on Gilmore’s current menu is the
ethically-fished shark’s fin soup.
Traditionally, the shark’s fin is cut off
the still-living shark which is thrown
back to sea to die, but Quay uses a
Western Australian company whose
shark fin is a by-product of the fish
and chip industry (sharks account for
the majority of fish in Sydney’s chippers
albeit under the guise of ‘flake’).
Here, Gilmore serves it as a little pile
of needles that look like cellophane
noodles nesting on top of a single
confitted duck egg yolk surrounded
by rounds of gold-flecked white
turnip. This is served then covered
in a duck consommé at the table.
The result? A textural masterpiece.
A spoon of the cartilaginous needles
with some of the yolk-enriched consommé
and turnip is rich, heady and
mouth wateringly more-some.
If desserts are your thing, Quay
is a happy hunting ground. Gilmore
is a master of sweets. Fine shards
of white peach granita are served
atop creamy vanilla ice cream while
nesting at the peak is a “snow egg”
– a ball of white peach ice cream
wrapped in fluffy meringue, coated in
toffee then dusted with icing sugar.
Quay may not be a restaurant
whose praises are sung from the tree
tops by the world at large, but it deserves
to be. It has spectacular views,
attentive service and interesting
wines (there’s even a separate beer
menu) but most of all, some of the
best food Sydney has to offer.
Details
- Address:
- Circular Quay West
- The Rocks
- Sydney
- 2000
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