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I’ve had some of the best dining experiences of my life at Bathers’ Pavilion. One was many years back: a long Sunday lunch where warm sun poured through the windows overlooking Balmoral, and time flowed as easily as crisp Chablis. I was seagull-with-a-hot-chip happy to dine at both of L’Enclume’s residencies – a thrilling collaboration that saw one of the world’s best restaurants take over the seaside institution for winter (twice), giving Sydneysiders the chance to experience Michelin-starred dining, minus the jetlag.
My most recent visit was just as exceptional. Clever, lively dishes. Service that elevates the experience. Golden, crunchy seaweed-dusted potato scallops humming with salt, vinegar and childhood nostalgia.
As I’m about to leave, I overhear a woman say to her date, “The food is always delicious here. Beautifully paced meal. Lovely view.”
The vibe
Those cortisol-lowering Balmoral views really are lovely – and on a sunny day, there are few places I’d rather be. The elegant, coastal-chic dining room, all blue-and-white stripes, walnut furniture and snow-white orchids, makes you linger a little longer and order one more drink. I’d argue the team, overseen by restaurant manager Jessica Mead, is one of the finest in Sydney – polished, intuitive and genuinely friendly.
A brief history: Bathers’ Pavilion is housed in a grand, heritage-listed Mediterranean-style building designed by local architect Alfred H. Hale. It was originally built in 1929 as a public bathing pavilion for swimmers at Balmoral.
It became Misha’s Restaurant in 1969, and in the 1990s, former Vogue stylist Victoria Alexander and Andrew Joseph took over. From the late 1990s, legendary chef Serge Dansereau shaped its reputation as a refined, produce-led restaurant for more than two decades.
In 2019, author Jessica Shirvington and her father, Ian Pageant, stepped in, injecting fresh energy, a new kitchen team, and headline-making residencies. SingleThread, California’s three-Michelin-star farm-to-table restaurant, is set to take over in July. Some people hibernate with Netflix during winter – not the Bathers’ team.
The food
Aaron Ward became executive chef of Bathers’ Pavilion in late 2023. He brings serious credentials, having spent time in the kitchens of Ester and LuMi Dining, before going on to become head chef of both Sixpenny and Shell House.
You should begin with the crunchy, umami-rich potato scallops. But also order the fermented potato bread, which arrives warm and pillow-like, topped with briny whipped roe, shavings of dried roe and chopped chives.
The doppio ravioli sees pasta filled with tangy goat’s cheese and sweet pumpkin, served in a pool of browned butter with a hint of lemon thyme, jewel-like currants and the crunch of sunflower seeds – a harmonious, joyful starter. My date’s octopus from Berrima is paired with macadamias, fried saltbush and a gentle chilli warmth, with caramelised miso and macadamia purée adding depth.
For mains, I toy with ordering pan-roasted coral trout with calamari and corn, and smoked Wollemi duck with figs and endive. But I land on the glazed Berkshire pork, which arrives looking like a piece of autumnal art. The succulent meat, caramelised in a house-made fig leaf honey, is bolstered by a sticky savoury mustard seed-dotted jus, balanced with sweet roasted plums, tempered by celeriac purée and finished with eschalot petals and cocktail onions. It’s a showstopper.
For dessert, a glistening slice of pain perdu with roasted Granny Smith apple and calvados anglaise is topped with wattle seed ice cream, featuring a squiggle of burnt honey that freezes like Ice Magic.
Two courses cost $105 per person; three courses are $125 per person.
The drinks
My Ambrosia Martini ($23) arrives in a classy coupe, a thin slice of cucumber shaped into a U like it’s lying in a hammock. Here, mastiha liqueur from Chios is paired with gin and flavoured with cucumber, Greek yoghurt and mint – adding a fresh lift and gentle tang. Try the Violet Moon (shochu, green tea, lychee, lime oil, butterfly pea soda), or for something with more attitude, there’s the Verdant Maria (tequila, tomato, coriander, green chilli, lime and paprika salt). There are six non-alcoholic cocktails to choose from, too.
The 350-strong wine list, curated by sommelier Iain Parkinson, showcases European heavy-hitters alongside local favourites, including a cracking bottle of 2024 pinot gris from family-owned Charlou ($88), an Orange winery specialising in cool-climate drops.
Time Out tip
There are a handful of seats left for the SingleThread residency, if your wallet allows (get in quick!). Plus, finding a park in Balmoral can be a nightmare, so I reckon treat yourself and get an Uber.
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