A new dynasty was born when the Chatswood Kam Fook changed hands in 2015. Now known as King Dynasty, this 600 seater up on the second level of the Westfield is still enormously popular; outside, in front of the fish tanks containing unhappy-looking king crabs and lobsters, the courtesy benches are full all day with (slightly happier-looking) customers, patiently awaiting their number to be called by the girl on the mike.
Inside is an epic space with two massive golden pillars and Versailles-worthy chandeliers. The dim sum here – puffy pork buns, shiny prawn dumplings, yellow siu mai, crunchy cucumber in vinegar soy – are delicious, but unremarkable. What is remarkable is the warmth of the staff. Wide smiles, welcoming, even chatty hosts, and green tea that comes as quickly as you can sit down are not things you should ever expect at yum cha, but it turns out they make the whole experience that much more pleasant.
The acoustics are kind of miraculous too: despite a full house you can carry on a civilised conversation here. If the tumult of the main space still scares you, up the grand staircase past the red rickshaw you’ll find private rooms that you can request.
