

Review
It’s 6.05am on the first Saturday of spring, and the sun is just pushing up over the ocean – warming the waves and turning the thin line of clouds on the horizon into candyfloss. From our bedroom overlooking the sea, we pull open the doors and carry our quilt and cushions out onto the balcony. We could have stayed there all day, weak morning sunshine like honey on un-sunned skin, the call of kookaburras and the thrum of the ocean the only sounds. We could have, but we would have missed out on the chance to eat plates of perfect Eggs Benedict in the colourful dining room, and to swim in the infinity pool that melts into the ocean, sparkles of light intensified in those first few hours of the morning. If we’d stayed for the whole day, we would have missed the chance to explore the nearby towns, to settle into the spa for a massage and to share a round of cocktails in the pool bar before dinner at the on-site restaurant by one of the world’s most famous seafood chefs. All that’s to say: there’s a lot to do at Bannisters, and none of it will dare to take you out of holiday mode.
Bannisters by the Sea is like every advert you’ve ever seen for a holiday, and looking back through your camera reel after your stay, you’ll find it hard to believe that you were actually there. Housed in a former motel, the beautifully restored, beach house-style boutique hotel opened in 2002, quickly cementing itself as one of the state’s most lusted-after coastal stays. In 2009, beloved English-born celebrity chef Rick Stein opened his first restaurant outside of the UK within the hotel’s walls, transforming the hotel into the kind of dreamy space that you really don’t need to leave.
More than 20 years since first opening its doors, Bannisters by the Sea (there’s a sister property in Port Stephens called Bannisters Port Stephens, so we’ll refer to this one by its full name) hasn’t lost even a speck of its magnificence. In fact, I wonder if part of the magic of this place comes from the compounded energy of happy guests who have whiled away their days here over the years. Sure, the interiors have been lovingly maintained to a flawless standard, and everything you eat here will be exquisite, but the beauty of Bannisters by the Sea is more than skin deep.
This is the kind of place that makes you feel immediately at peace. Seconds into your stay, you’ll be plotting your return.
Spread across two levels, the 34 rooms within the hotel itself range in size from the 30 square metre Ocean Deluxe room to the sprawling Cameron Kimber Penthouse, which occupies a 243 square metre space on the top floor of the hotel. There’s a garden terrace room and a family suite, or a spa retreat complete with a spa-style bathtub overlooking the ocean. All bar two of the rooms have ocean views, so it's worth checking when you book if waking up to the ocean is at the top of your tick list.
Ours was one of the Colette Dinnigan penthouse suites, and it was the coastal apartment of my dreams: all white panelled walls and oak floorboards softened with vintage rugs and linen upholstery. The nautical theme is carried throughout via the blue and white colour scheme and the vintage photographs and maps that line the walls, but it isn’t overdone. The aesthetic here is tasteful and timeless – huge MCM couches carefully adorned with patterned cushions, and marble-trimmed bathrooms with heated tiled floors and fluffy towelled robes. The fridge is stocked with pre-mixed cocktails and chilled glasses ready to be deployed on the vast wooden terrace – which is almost as beautiful at sunset as it is at sunrise.
If you’re staying with a big group of friends, you can book Rick’s Beachhouse via the Bannisters website – a separate coastal home close to the hotel that sleeps up to twelve guests.
In England, people travel across the country to try Rick Stein’s seafood, and the same goes for his Mollymook outpost. The award-winning ocean-facing restaurant serves fresh, locally caught seafood elevated to perfection through Rick Stein’s signature playful style. The menus change with the seasons, but expect dishes like steamed snapper with sesame and Bannisters’ signature fish pie, plus a handful of meat and veggie options.
Overlooking the pool, you’ll find the aptly named pool bar, which serves casual bites like taramasalata and wood-fired flatbread and a very good line in cocktails and locally made wine.
Nearby, the options are endless – for a regional area, the Shoalhaven region has an absurd number of incredible foodie options. If you’re looking for something within walking distance, Gwylo in Mollymook is a trendy-as-hell fusion eatery with excellent share plates and creative cocktails inspired by Asia’s buzzing street food scenes (a fourteen-minute walk from the hotel). If you’re up for the drive (or are willing to spend a little on organising a pick-up with the team at reception), it’s worth heading into nearby Milton, where you’ll find everything from a Melbourne-coded natural wine bar serving gorgeous low-intervention vino and perfect salty snacks (Small Town Provisions) to a pub whose (impeccable) menu is brought to life by a Gordon Ramsay-trained chef (The Milton Hotel). A must-visit for a long lunch during your stay is Milk Haus – a gorgeous farm-to-table restaurant with a market garden, florist and ceramics studio on site, just over ten minutes’ drive from the hotel.
The service here matches the vibe of the area: laid-back perfection. The team seem to genuinely enjoy their jobs, and in such a stunning space, we can’t blame them. On a particularly sunny morning, when we can’t decide between breakfast in the restaurant or an extra hour by the pool, a member of the restaurant team tells us to stock up on brekkie and take it down to the pool – a deviation from the rules that makes our day.
There’s no gym on site, but if you need to get some exercise, the walking trails and running routes in the area are second to none.
Bannisters’ infinity pool is what holiday dreams are made of – cutting a rectangle of turquoise into the rocky headland, with uninterrupted views of the glittering ocean. Fringed by striped sunbeds and steps away from the restaurant and pool bar, it would be easy to spend an entire weekend wrapped in the pool’s mesmerising embrace, and we wouldn’t blame you.
Spa by the Sea is the hotel’s on-site day spa, home to four pastel-toned treatment rooms, a sauna, and an indoor-outdoor cabana overlooking the ocean. Treatments range from facials to hot stone massages, but we’d suggest booking one of the curated packages to combine a couple of treatments and leave feeling totally reborn.
The South Coast of NSW (particularly the Shoalhaven region) is the holiday destination I keep coming back to. Just three hours south of Sydney, this is the ultimate escape from the city – home to endless secluded beaches, excellent hiking trails and an abundant selection of eateries.
For a picture-perfect escape from reality that will fill your cup to the brim.
Address: 191 Mitchell Parade, Mollymook Beach NSW 2539
Price per night: From $699 per night
Closest transport link: The drive from Sydney takes just over three hours, and public transport options are very limited – you’ll need a car to get here.
Book now: You can book over here.
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