14 best old-school Japanese coffee shops in Tokyo

Upon spotting this charming old house on Yanaka's Kototoi-dori, most passers-by probably wouldn't guess that it's been home to a café for well over 70 years. Inside, you'll find a fusion of the time-honoured kissaten tradition and the newly trendy craft coffee ethos – no AeroPressing, just honestly good Joe, best combined with a pick off the wonderfully retro food menu. Try the egg sandwich for a quick bite, or the weekly lunch for a more substantial option. Kayaba is one of those places where you can lose track of time and just drift away into daydreams, no matter what's going on outside the weather-bitten windows.

While some kissaten can seem worn down and outdated, Tajimaya stands out with its impeccable attention to detail and a dedication to providing the most genuine experience. 

Six times a week, the staff sift through green coffee beans by hand, throwing out any that may compromise the flavour of the brew before the beans are roasted in-house. There’s a wide range of beans from different countries to choose from, and once you’ve made your choice, your coffee is hand-dripped through a cloth filter and served in a cup that is deemed best suited to your style.

The menu also includes a selection of cakes and sandwiches to pair with your coffee, or opt to indulge in nostalgic kissaten favourites like coffee jelly with heavy cream or buttered toast with sweet azuki (red bean) paste.

Stepping through the low, marble-tiled entrance, the first thing you’ll notice is the gorgeous tableware displayed behind a long hardwood counter. That’s not to say that the surroundings here outshine the coffee – on the contrary, Satei Hato’s hand-drip offerings maintain the absolutely highest quality. Choose from up to eight varieties of charcoal-roasted beans and watch as the formally dressed staff prepare your treat with almost religious dedication. At ¥900 and up, the coffee here doesn’t exactly allow for everyday consumption, but any true enthusiast will do well to visit Satei Hato at least once.

'Coffee Only' reads the sign outside Café de l'Ambre, which has been keeping the Ginza hordes well caffeinated since 1948. The kissaten was founded by the late Ichiro Sekiguchi, and the staff on-hand continue to run the shop under his legacy. Though they treat their coffee with the utmost seriousness, this isn't one of those fussy, killjoy coffee temples where conversation has to be conducted in furtive whispers and customers need a secret handshake to get through the door (we exaggerate, but only slightly).

Take your pick between a lone blend coffee and 30-odd single origin varieties, including a good number of aged coffees. The air of accessibility extends to English-language menus, and practically demands that you order something odd.

Opened in 1980, Trois Chambres feels a world away from the busy streets of Shimokitazawa. Antique cups line the shelves, regulars strike up conversation over the counter and the corner tables are practically always occupied by someone reading a book – time truly appears to stand still at this kissaten, which might even feel a little intimidating for first-timers. But fear not: the fellow running the show here is friendly and subtle, the cheesecakes (both rare and baked) are heavenly and coffee comes with a free refill.

Not all kissaten in Tokyo are worth the moniker, but this one in Nishi-Ogikubo sure makes the grade: stained-glass windows, antique clocks and the soft jazz soundtrack make you feel like you’ve stepped back in time. Founded in 1975, Monozuki offers a very simple menu – black coffee is the main attraction – but is beloved by both locals and former Nishi-Ogi-ites who come here to savour the flavours of a bygone era.

How about some coffee, cake and a ticket back to the Tokyo of 1977? Galant, a kissaten in Ueno, hasn’t changed a bit during its 46 years of business, and while its furniture and interiors – including the garish lamps and pink telephone in the corner – show their age, they also serve as charming reminders of a bygone era. The dessert selection is equally retro, with the delicious but less-than-photogenic chocolate parfait harking back to the good old days before Instagram. 

This time-worn kissaten oozes with Showa-era vibes. From the fake food displays out front to the retro interiors, Parlor Kimuraya is exactly what you’d expect from a classic Tokyo kissaten. Having been around for over 30 years, the café has a particular charm that can't be replicated at any modern coffee shop or café. It really feels as if you’ve stepped back in time. 

The menu offers all the classic kissaten staples including napolitan pasta (ketchup spaghetti), chicken rice topped with a blanket of egg, and pizza toast. There’s also a handful of colourful desserts such as kakigori shaved ice, pudding, anmitsu (agar jelly with fruit) and banana sundaes.

Hamanoya is on the basement floor of the Shin-Yurakucho Building, just by the D2 exit of Yurakucho Station. As well as serving an array of soft drinks, this old-school café serves light meals, including a great selection of sandwiches, and does a nice sideline in desserts (its parfaits are especially good). But it's the egg choice on the menu that most people go for. The ample omelette filling gives this delicious sandwich a satisfyingly firm texture, which matches the thinly sliced bread perfectly. Hamanoya is generous with all of its portions, and the prices are very reasonable.

Kissaten are usually thought of as Japanese coffee shops, but Kissamako is no ordinary kissaten. A typical kissaten is like a moment frozen in time: picture vinyl seats, chrome-edged tables and lace-trimming everywhere, then add a layer of retro 1960s Japanese charm. Kissamako has been open since 1961, so it’s got the '60s charm in spades, but unlike a normal kissaten, this place is all about seafood. The house special is the ozoni, a bowl of aromatic clear broth with grilled mochi, poached chicken, clams, scallops and vegetables. For a quick bite, grab the quintessential kissaten egg sandwich.

All the beans are roasted on the premises of this dedicated coffee specialist in suburban Minami-Senju in northern Tokyo. Café Bach also happened to supply the coffee for the G8 summit that took place in Okinawa in 2000, a meeting that is commemorated on the Japanese ¥2,000 note. You'll be in safe hands here as this kissaten has been hand-dripping its coffee with the same precision since it opened for business back in 1968.

Surrounded by a whole load of ice cream parlours, this jazzy take on a traditional kissaten was named after Finnish director Aki Kaurismäki's movie Juha (1999), which the owner loved, inspiring him to put together a decidedly Scandinavian-vibe interior. Settle into one of the chairs and contemplate life or read a book while listening to the soothing music – but while doing that, don't forget to order the signature Masako's An Toast. This slice of bread was conjured up at a now-closed jazz café in Shimokitazawa named Masako, and is more or less faithfully replicated here in Nishi-Ogi. 

Regulars pack the room throughout the day at Muku, Nogata's top kissaten. If you need a little something sweet, order the cake set – a decent cup of coffee plus a choice of handmade cheesecake (our visit saw options like cream cheese, orange cheese, chocolate cheese and rare cheese) – and kick back while listening to the locals' chatter.

If you want to fully experience the Japanese way of drinking Joe, head straight for Sumida Coffee. Instead of serving its power-packed roast in ceramic mugs, these guys use Edo Kiriko cups, honouring the traditional, Tokyo-born form of glass manufacturing and decoration. Typically only associated with cold drinks, the Edo Kiriko ware here was made to order by a master of the craft and can't be found anywhere else. There are 11 different cup designs, and the owner pairs each one with a customer based on his impression of the person in question. If you like the one he picks for you, consider buying a cup with the same design as a souvenir.