Gariful ('Carnation' in local dialect) is based at the waterfront promenade of the Riva, alongside the superyachts berthed in the port. Unsurprisingly, it's a top-class seafood establishment, its fare based on the catch of the day prepared in any given way known in Dalmatia: grilled, brodetto, baked in salt, and so on. You can also get an Adriatic lobster and international dishes such as steak and caviar. The wine list has been created from the best possible Croatian selection, with a few top foreign labels and champagnes thrown in. 'Elite' is the word you're looking for. The service suits the surroundings, and if they can't show you to a table on the terrace, there's a glass-floor interior with an aquarium underneath. Naturally, Gariful is a VIP magnet, attracting the likes of Prince Harry, Roman Abramovich and Giorgio Armani.