Once a bland café, the Radovani family's Hvaranin is one of the liveliest of Split's traditional venues. With mum and dad in the kitchen and son behind the bar, this is a second home for many journalists and writers whose books sit on the shelves. Everything is simple, home-made and delicious. Specials include gregada fish stew Hvar-style, and white risotto with mussels. Don't miss the traditional dessert, rožata crème caramel. Seating is limited so book ahead.
The Split restaurant scene's culinary revolution is a recent phenomenon and one that's still booming. Decent and diverse eateries seem to be opening on an almost monthly basis, making Croatia's second city a gastronomic destination equal to almost any in the country. Split is not only a tourist playground – it's a living, breathing, dining-out city for locals too.