REI, a contemporary sushi pop-up bar which takes residence on the ground floor of DC Restaurant, will change the way you look at sushi. Its three-month long run comes to an end on Wednesday, Jul 20. Limited seats are still available, so book now.
Impressively, REI is bucking some norms in the local sushi scene. Chef-owner Eddie Ng and Barcspain Nea are only in their twenties, unlike the common trend where respectable sushi restaurants are helmed by veterans. But don’t let their age dissuade you; what they bring to the table, literally, are some of the most interesting sushi in town. (If you need to know, Eddie was groomed in London and Tokyo at some of the most prestigious sushi restaurants while Barcspain is French-trained.)
Here, fish are aged before they’re served; you’d be surprised how this simple process of leaving the flesh on ice in the chiller for a few days concentrates the fish’s natural flavours and at the same time breaks down the flesh, making it more tender. While this is a common practice among top sushi restaurants elsewhere, it’s not widely practised here.
Barcspain Nea and Eddie Ng
Photo: Daniel Chan
Instead of having soy sauce and wasabi on the side, as you normally would, Eddie marinades or seasons the sushi prior to serving. As a result, you get parcels of fish on rice that are delicately seasoned and perfumed, and they become more complex and exciting. It’s all about adding that umami flavour, which often lacks in clean-tasting sushi. Case in point being the finale of the nine sushi course, the fatty shimofuri tuna with beautiful marbling (‘the kobe beef of the sea’ Eddie calls it). With the addition of truffle oil and a pinch of Australian Murray River salt, the fish becomes unusually savoury, in a good way, and because of the ageing process, it feels like butter in your mouth.
We love how a simple piece of squid becomes more dimensional in taste when sprinkled with dulse flakes, sesame seeds and grated lime zest; how the use of sancho pepper lends a hit of lemony notes to the marinated boiled scallops; and how the Atlantic cutlassfish is torched just lightly enough to break down its rubbery skin and fat and then seasoned with the bright-tasting yuzukosho (made from yuzu and chilli). Everything feels measured, considered and well thought out, and sushi becomes exciting again.
First seating, 7pm; second seating, 9pm; only 10 seats per session (012 279 4188). Omakase only: RM180++ for nine sushi, one handroll and a dessert. Pork-free. The pop-up ends July 20.