Hokkien mee is hawker staple where everyone has a firm and personal idea of how it should taste. Do you like it heavily coated in dark soy sauce, springy and slightly wet? Lian Bee, hidden in an alley next to Lai Foong Restaurant, is all that and more – their noodles arrive with a sprinkle of glistening fried lard, begging you to admire first, and then dig in with a side of homemade belacan. After the original owner passed away his son stopped using charcoal-fire in his cooking but each plate of Hokkien mee is still imbued with fragrant wok hei. A Hokkien mee shack ought to be a bit tumbledown, rowdy and possibly fronted by a kitchen that’s been operating since the ’50s. Lian Bee is exactly that.