January 2014
As an alfresco dining spot, Limoncello Bistro & Bar ticks all the right boxes. Located at the end of the restaurant strip facing KLCC Park, the year-old Italian bistro offers a pretty view of the lake, a casual atmosphere and a roomy space for patrons looking to while away the day. We paid Limoncello a visit on a Friday afternoon to find it devoid of a lunch crowd and duly consulted a menu that contained everything from Black Angus rib eye (RM88) to marinated mushroom panini (RM28.80).
The pasta we eventually opted for was first to arrive. Commendably, the zucchini-topped carbonara linguine with prawns was not drenched in sauce – unlike some of Limoncello’s gravy-happy Italian counterparts around KL – but it was a case of one step forward and two steps back. The egg-cheese base was bland and underseasoned, as the succulent prawns turned out to be the dish’s sole burst of flavour and finesse. Now, if only there were more than four crustaceans on our plate.
The ensuing capricciosa woodfire pizza, comprising chicken ham, roasted artichoke, mushroom, mozzarella, egg, olive and tomato, fared a little better. Featuring a crispy thin crust that was not too doughy, the Italian culinary staple was buoyed by the inclusion of a poached egg that added a dash of pizzazz to the dish.
Uninspired by our mains, we delved into the dessert menu in the hope of finding a silver lining to Limoncello – we found none. The panna cotta we ordered possessed none of the silky smooth mouthfeel or melt-in-your-mouth texture you’d expect from the classic Northern Italian soft-set pudding, with the less than generous side of sugary berry coulis compounding our misery. You may have better luck with the citrus lemon tart (RM18.80) or banana crepe (RM18.80). However, we were too discouraged to try them after our lacklustre panna cotta.
Established by the owners of Spasso Milano, there’s certainly no shortage of pedigree behind the scenes at Limoncello, but given the slightly above average price, we couldn’t help but feel shortchanged by its offerings. If money is no object, you’d be better served visiting Svago, its Italian fine dining sister outlet that is perched above Limoncello in a swanky, refined space. Wong Boon Ken