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The enterprising Seiji Fujimoto is taking over Taman Desa, one izakaya at a time. His smoky bar is a favourite in our books, if only for its noisy, densely packed space – the closest thing in KL to Shinjuku’s yakitori alley experience. Grilled meats arrive hot and oily, oyakodon bowls spill over with pork, and beer is served cheap – what more could you want, really?