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It was Yeok Kai Seng who began the business in ’65. Fast forward 50 years, and the little stall set up along Jalan Klang Lama has branched out into a chain of chicken rice shops in the city. It’s a comforting, simple dish: a plate of silky smooth steamed white chicken in a pool of savoury soy sauce, with fluffy round rice cooked in chicken stock, and a small bowl of clear soup.