The notion of a nameless label isn’t something new – but in a post-modern, over-sharing day and age, anonymity can be powerful, rewarding, subversive. Designs with no names, labels minus the titles: look at Vetements, the Düsseldorf-based collective of young designers who snub the trappings of traditional luxury; look at Maison Martin Margiela, the most famous designer you’ve never heard of.
HIDE has had the scene buzzing for a while now, provoking intrigue behind a mask of mystery; the new label, which launched its first showcase at KLFW, is designed by a fashion photographer, one with a distaste for the spotlight and a professional focus on the product. The end result is cutting-edge, hard-hitting cool that is ‘minimalistic in nature’; modern, yet referencing monk robes, Japanese aesthetics and cultural norms, and the ‘shifting shapes of desert dunes’. There’s a touch of deconstruction – something raw and rough – to the (almost) all-black-everything collection (‘Black is not a colour, but a style’, the designer tells us, and we agree); it convinces from the get-go and at first look, a painted stroke bodysuit paired with pinstripe hakama pants, tied with an oversized leather obi belt. Everything else we love too, drapes, pleats and all – the chiffon slit dress, the floor-length wool vest, and the karate belted suede biker jacket. What’s in store for the near future, you ask? ‘Unisex wear and unexpected textures’.
Verdict: Minimalistic Japanese cool
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