Yes, it’s inspired by the Bauhaus design school of interwar Germany, and yes, it has three colourful shapes instead of a name over the door. But for all its braininess, this neighbourhood bar in Haggerston (previously acclaimed among the World’s 50 Best) never forgets that you’re here to have fun. The menu focuses on a short run of pre-bottled, affordable house cocktails, many served with massive, geometric ice cubes (and oblongs, and spheres) and molecular garnishes like a tiny cube of Campari jelly. The actual mixing stuff – including some wacky experiments in flavour and form – happens up the road at a multifunctional sister space called the Warehaus. Friendly staff clad in colourful boiler suits are happy to explain the science. True to Bauhaus principles of function dictating form, the space is bright and breezy with a lino floor, lots of chrome and the faint air of a science lab – especially in the back room and capacious downstairs bar. In many ways it’s the polar opposite of your classic cocktail bar: no velvet drapes, no backlit bottles, no flamboyant shaker action. But despite the stripped-back décor, it’s no less a vibe once the lights are turned down.
Order this
If there’s a single signature cocktail here, it’s probably the kazimir: a short, elegant blend of vodka infused with peach yogurt (yes, really) and absinthe. It’s a grown-up drink with the faintest delightful hint of a kid’s fromage frais – not a bad way to sum up Shapes’s playful-yet-rigorous approach to bartending.
Time Out tip
One key USP of ABWSFAN is that it us open until very late (4am!) and takes walk-ins all night long, making it an ideal spot for that very last round… or two or three… of the evening/morning.