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As the name suggests, the building was a Victorian dairy, which sets the tone both outside (there are some stunning friezes on the exterior walls) and inside this Real Pubs venture. Exposed brickwork and unusual angles create all sorts of cosy corners in what is actually a very large space, and locals of all ages come to enjoy the friendly welcome and above-average food.
The weekday menu has dishes such as pan-fried sea bass and braised fennel with salsa verde, as well as pub classics (fish and chips, lancashire hotpot). On a Sunday lunchtime, roasts are the popular option. Beef was slightly more than medium rare – a small quibble about a great plate of food that included yorkshire puddings, bashed carrot and parsnip, a delectable pea, pak choi, mint and spring onion dish and horseradish cream. For pudding, our waitress directed us to the odd-sounding ‘peanut butter parfait with strawberry jam’. It was one of the finest puddings we can remember eating, but it could do with a better name.
A decent range of drinks includes a guest cider (Orchard Cornish cider, say); real ales such as Thunderbird from Cottage Brewing in Somerset or Windsor & Eton Brewery’s Guardsman; and a global wine list with plenty by the glass.