For a long time the Shaston Arms was a leftfield Soho pub choice. Not one of the big hitters, (Coach & Horses, French House, Blue Posts etc), but certainly not one of the abject shitholes (of which we’ll refrain from naming to protect their modesty). A decent choice nonetheless, the Shaston wasn’t as historic as the rest. It’d actually been a regular shopfront until Dorset brewery Hall & Woodhouse took it over in 1999, named it after a Thomas Hardy town and turned it into an ersatz Victorian boozer.
Lamb chops couldn’t be cooked better
In 2025, the space was picked up by the same team behind Barnes’ bucolic Waterman Arms gastropub, of which we have previously sung the praises. They gussied up the tatty wooden booths, gave it a moody red ceiling and one of those vintage-styled fairground signs that looks like it was hand-painted by a biker who doesn't actually own a bike. Situated in the pedestrianised Carnaby quarter, it quickly became home to Soho’s biggest vertical drinking squad.
But as well as jubilant street boozing, a very small space has been carved out for dinner. It’s a bit of a squeeze, what with the dining area made up of five tables sunk into a mahogany-lined moat against the back wall of the pub. But somehow it works, with plush velvet curtains tied open and separating it from the main bar, making diners feel like they’re watching a 19th century music hall performance. Champagne Charlie has, however, been replaced by IPA Ian.
It’s quite a mad little menu, a non-specific European thing which draws from France, Spain and Italy with abandon and includes just two mains; steak or lamb chops. But this gives you the perfect excuse to do what we always want to; relentlessly order endless starters. The smaller ones are also available as snacks in the bar, and have bone fide pub grub roots. We skip the pork pie but indulge in glossy chicken fat onion rings dolloped on a rich liver mousse with big medieval banquet energy. A crispy little shallot fritter is one of the best bites we’ve had all year, the large wodge of fish and smokey cod’s roe as loud and bone-rattling as a Sunn O))) soundcheck, and at £4 a pop, excellent value. There’s a piri-piri rib cap skewer too, bopping in a glistening prawn sauce, as well as rudely ripe nectarines, chopped mint and shaved sheep’s cheese in oil. Another one? Go on; light and flaky monkfish is given heft with a creamy tandoori sauce and a silky mound of spinach. Snacks are around a tenner and none of the small plates are north of £16.
The concept of a massive steak seems hilarious at this stage, so we split the lamb loin chops between two. They couldn’t be cooked better, served with sauteed peppers for sweetness, and chips that boast an excellent fry-to-crispy bits ratio. Chocolate sorbet and hazelnut custard is, essentially, a large, cold Ferrero Rocher.
Turns out that Soho’s smallest dining room is also one of its best.
The vibe Very, very cosy dining at the back of one of Soho’s busiest boozers.
The food Highly seasonal European small plates and elevated pub snacks for a decent price.
The drink An approachable wine list and powerful negronis.
Time Out tip Go hard on the starters and snacks - the Shaston Arms menu is made for grazing.