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The fascinating ‘desert’ that is one of the best day trips from London

The spooky deserted stretch of sand can be reached from the capital in just two hours

India Lawrence
Written by
India Lawrence
Staff Writer, UK
Dungeness beach
Photograph: James Manning for Time Out
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If you’ve spent any time in Dungeness, you’ll know why many people call it Britain’s only ‘desert’. Although not technically a desert, its long stretch of shingle, peppered with shipwrecks, is so spookily empty that it’s often compared with barren, sandy landscapes. 

The uniqueness of this place is also why Time Out has named it one of the 20 best day trips from London. When it comes to day trips, Londoners have oodles of choice – from magical forests to foodie meccas and historical cities  – but today, we’re here to talk about Dungeness. 

Despite its empty appearance, there is in fact plenty to do in the Kent seaside town. After paying a visit to the atmospheric disused nuclear power station, via eerie washed up boats and abandoned beach shacks, you can get stuck in to an abundance of cultural, foodie or nature-based things to do and see, which includes artists’ open houses, experimental filmmaker Derek Jarman’s house, and really good seafood.  

Here’s how Time Out editor James Manning recommends spending the day in Dungeness: ‘You could catch the Romney, Hythe & Dymchurch steam train down the coast, and hop off in Dungeness for a walk and a pint at the lonely Britannia Inn. Grab a freshly-caught lunch at the famous Snack Shack: specialities include lobster or crab rolls and smoked cod chowder. And check out the galleries and open houses showcasing the work of the (surprisingly) many artists who have moved down here, including the shingle garden of Derek Jarman, whose yellow-windowed Prospect Cottage is a major landmark here. Book in advance for a 40-minute tour inside.

‘If you’ve got time, head over to RSPB Dungeness nature reserve for a chance to glimpse glossy ibises and marsh harriers – plus the huge concrete “sound mirrors”, pre-radar experiments from WW1 that were designed to listen out for planes. (Look out on the RSPB site for news of the rare open days when you can get up close.) Finish off your day with dinner at the Pilot Inn; I’m willing to back the quality of their famous fish and chips, which were the thing that brought Derek Jarman here in the first place.’

A beautiful sunrise over a wooden fishing boat in Dungeness
Photograph: Shutterstock

To reach Dungeness, it’s a one hour train from St Pancras International to Folkestone, with a one-hour and 30-minute bus ride to Dungeness. Or take a bus or taxi from Folkestone to Hythe station to board the Romney, Hythe & Dymchurch Railway. Alternatively, Dungeness is around two hours from London by car.

Find all of Time Out’s 20 best day trips from London here.

The charming, picture-perfect city that is one of the best day trips from London.

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