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A first-class fish restaurant with an inventive, seasonal menu.
Every table in the seventh floor restaurant of the South Place Hotel (part of the D&D empire) has a view over the surrounding rooftops and cranes; it’s a serene spot, with pristine white tablecloths and chic flower arrangements, though on summer weekends it’s more of a party space, complete with DJs. This relaxed style permeates the building – staff are as switched on as you’d expect from the restaurant’s Michelin star, but charmingly unstuffy with it, and that blend suits a restaurant poised between the old-school City and the new world of the Silicon Roundabout.
British fish is the speciality, impeccably cooked and presented, from a menu by executive chef Gary Foulkes. The star of the show was cuttlefish bolognese with basil rigatoni, Amalfi lemon and olive oil, a sprightly, springtime starter bursting with flavour. A main of john dory with mousseron mushrooms, three-cornered leek (a wild allium with a short season of only a few weeks) and Tuscan lentils was also splendid, with beautifully crisped skin and tender fish. Both dishes came from the set lunch menu, brilliant value at £34 for three courses (which is less than a single main course from the à la carte).
Alongside the fish there are a few meat options, but when the fish and seafood are this good, it seems pointless to stray. Chocolate pavé with banana and reduced milk ice-cream was a pleasing mix of fancy and comfort food to finish. Special mention should also go to the yeast butter, delightfully light and with a Marmite tang.
The wine list inevitably gets scary fast, but plenty of tables around us were sticking with Aperol spritz. Sit out on the terrace if you can – a rare asset in this part of town – as it’s a real sun-trap made for kicking back with a glass of Tavel rosé.
Angler has an adjoining rooftop terrace, which offers a little piece of Provence in the heart of the City. The terrace also provides a retractable roof alongside heaters, so it can be enjoyed for its views come rain or shine, throughout the seasons.
Voted one of the best roof terraces in London with views over The City and complete with heaters and a retractable roof.