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The younger sibling of a buzzy modern Middle Eastern joint in Battersea, Bababoom N1 looks set to be just as popular. Modish kebabs are the backbone of the menu: versions include saffron-and-orange chicken shish; rotisserie mutton shoulder; beef brisket, chilli and smoked-cheese kofta; and, because this is London in 2019, coal-fired cauliflower with pomegranate and tahini.
It’s the best sort of fast food: filling, delicious and as healthy as you want it to be, with add-ons ranging from date-glazed bacon to homemade pickles. There’s also the option of a Boom Box, comprising a generous plate of bulgur wheat salad, grilled red pepper, avocado tahini, rocket and a pickled chilli, served with either chargrilled chicken or vegan-friendly broad bean falafel (a brilliant, fresh-tasting spin on the original).
A brisket kebab was equally moreish, served with a piquant dressing and crisp fattoush salad. Extras include well-oiled za’atar bread sprinkled with sesame seeds, dukkah fries (though sadly dukkah is no substitute for salt when it comes to chips), sticky sumac wings and sweet potato houmous.
There’s weekend brunch too, offering eggs and fried halloumi options alongside a couple of kebabs and the riot of sweetness that is cinnamon-dipped eggy bread with Nutella, caramelised banana, clotted cream and honeycomb. Best of all, Bababoom’s staff are attentive but unpushy, allowing you to enjoy the meal and appreciate the diner-esque interior. Settle back into the banquette seating and hope for a sunny day, when they fully fold open the front windows.