Brother Marcus is a vibey Eastern Mediterranean joint that first opened in Balham back in 2016 with a focus on booze and brunch. This second location, in Angel, is similar, but open all day, with the relaxed atmos of a rustic brasserie (there’s wood on every surface, lots of mood lighting and plants climbing the walls). On-trend breakfast dishes are still on the menu, but at night, things get a bit more ambitious: with interesting small plates that carry a lot of oomph. Friendly staff excelled at explaining slightly complicated menu items, like the hearty fried buttermilk chicken with muhammara (an unctuous, nut-rich, red pepper sauce) and grated graviera cheese, the cauliflower with kassoundi and raisins (a lovely vegan option), and the fried feta with honey and sesame (a delicious hit of salt and sweet). Tiger prawns with black garlic and caramelised yoghurt was the only combination that didn’t quite work – everything else Marcus popped on a plate, we liked.
One thing: though the food was fun and interesting, by the end of the meal we were dying for a fresh-tasting salad or some healthy green veg to offset the heaviness. There’s plenty to like about Brother Marcus. If he balances the menu, we’ll like him even more.