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Sleek and low-lit with lots of dark wood panelling, this Oxford Circus branch of Busaba Eathai sticks to the chain’s (wildly successful) formula: quality Thai fare served up in sophisticated surroundings.
The food, as always, is solidly decent but not sensational. Best was a rich, sweet mussaman duck curry – pair it with sticky coconut rice for a fine bowl. Also good was the fresh, crunchy green bean slaw.
Spring rolls, though, were slightly greasy; and the calamari came doused in an unpleasantly sweet, sticky sauce. But overall, this branch (Busaba’s twelfth in London) maintains the chain’s reliably above-average standards. If you’re looking for an oasis off Oxford Street, you could do a lot worse.