Joo Young Won used to be head chef at the Michelin-starred Galvin at Windows, which looked out, Mary Poppins-style, over the oligarchian rooftops of Belgravia and Hyde Park from the 28th floor of the Park Lane Hilton. His new restaurant, Calong, has a slightly different view.
Directly opposite a branch of Whole Foods, it’s right on the Buggy Mile (aka Stoke Newington Church Street). But who needs to gaze upon the middle classes clutching their sourdough loaves when the scenery inside is so nice. Cosy and simple, the front room-esque space features wall-mounted coat hooks a la St John, a chalkboard menu, an exposed brick fire surround and so many two-tops that you feel like you’re an extra on First Dates.
Calong’s mythic BBQ onglet is the kind of steak a non steak lover could love
Calong is a date spot and no mistake, with food made for sharing and fork fights over who gets to scoff the last kimchi fritter. Chef Joo was raised in South Korea, but began his cookery career in the UK, and for a long time focused on French technique. It shows. Calong sees him cooking dishes inspired by his native cuisine in a masterful light-touch fusion fashion. Those kimchi fritters are a mighty opener, an even-more addictive take on the classic kimchi pancake, leaning into those crispy edges by making it all crispy edges. It’s a bit like if roast potatoes were just the skins. In other words: elite snackery.
A warm pumpkin and crisp pear salad is delicately dressed with gochujang and, what we first thought were tiny little spuds, turn out to be soft puffs of fried potato gnocchi. Whimsical and twee without being annoying, its artfulness is outplayed by its creamy, addictive taste.
Cured Chalkstream trout is so fresh, it practically swims off the plate, a perfectly tart sesame and plum soy, with grapefruit and crisp cucumber adding to its sprightly charm. Then comes Joo’s fried chicken, a dish so good that the chef gave his name to it. He backs it hard and so do we, crunchy yet silky tenders on a sweet-but-not-too-sweet chilli sauce dotted with crunchy peanuts.
When it comes to mains, Calong’s mythic BBQ onglet is the kind of steak a non steak lover could love. No gristle, just sweet, tender meat served with a smattering of unobtrusive greens and a bulgogi jus. A winner. The only misfire in a series of unfettered hits is the mushroom sot bap rice pot. The steamy cauldron doesn’t fail to offer deep, wintry comfort, but is in desperate need of the kind of kick delivered by every single other dish we try.
Calong might not have Mayfair views, but it’s one of the most exciting restaurants Stoke Newington has to offer.
The vibe Super romantic – but without trying too hard – date night fodder.
The food Euro ingredients and Korean flavours.
The drink Korean-accented cocktail are sublime: try the sesame old fashioned and soju paloma first, before switching to natty wine.
Time Out tip Follow your meal with a drink in teeny tiny micro pub, Macintosh Ales.