Time Out says
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A Hoxton restaurant from the man behind the smash hit Muswell Hill caff.
Heard of Criskitch? Named after Aussie-born chef-owner Chris Honor, it’s a Muswell Hill café serving stunning salads and loadsa cake, all of which goes down a storm with yummy mummies and foodie locals. Well, this Hoxton follow-up is nothing like that. No, this time it’s a restaurant proper, designed to showcase Honor’s pedigree (Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, The Dorchester) with a grown-up dinner menu.
The lightest offerings, from giant Parmesan crisps on sticks to a refreshing tomato pavé, layered with shaved asparagus and candied quinoa, were the most memorable by far. Other dishes (‘barbecue’ chicken with creamed potato; syrupy poached pear with salted caramel) were too heavy, too dull. As for serving ‘chocolate soft centre pudding’ aka chocolate fondant… Seriously? Is it the 1990s again?
If you’re into rich food of the classical school, perhaps that’s just fine. But then the minimalist setting – all jet-black furniture and doof-doof-doof soundtrack – also seems to jar. Chriskitch’s saving grace? The man himself. His general bonhomie and sheer enthusiasm for food is impossible not to love.
5 Hoxton Market
|Price:||Dinner for two with drinks and service: around £120.|
|Do you own this business?|