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The south-west of France, it would seem from Comptoir Gascon’s menu, is not a good place to be a pig or a duck – or a vegetarian, for that matter. This bistro/deli, like its haute-cuisine big brother Club Gascon round the corner, specialises in the cuisine of Gascony: richer than Depardieu and earthier than Gainsbourg.
The aforementioned porkers and quackers appear in various dishes – grilled duck hearts, crackling with duck egg, duck confit – while starters include the must-order ‘piggy treats’, a charcuterie board with saucisson, pâté, rillettes and slivers of cured tongue. Mains don’t let up on the meat: there are several preparations of foie gras, rabbit and veal kidney (although cod with lavender-scented tomato compote was light and aromatic). Rustic, yes, but sophisticated too, and every dish comes with a bold whack of flavour.
The wine list is exclusively focused on south-west France, meaning this is a great place to explore the area’s native lesser-seen grapes, such as courbu or manseng.
The oddly shaped space is stripped back to brick in that typical Farringdon way, but manages to be cosy and welcoming, especially in the evening when twinkling candles add a touch of romance.
68 Charterhouse Street
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