If you’ve ever enjoyed spicy Chinese food in London, chances are it’s been at one of the city’s many Sichuan restaurants. Perhaps over a thick, gravy-like mapo tofu or a plate of Chongqing chilli chicken, buried under a mountain of crimson chillies. That means you’ve already met two of China’s great spice modes: 麻辣 má là, the numbing sensation of Sichuan peppercorns, and 干辣 gān là: a cleaner heat that comes from dried chillies.
Fish head with chopped chillies is a must-order for curious diners and collagen enthusiasts
With the opening of Fiery Flavors in Surrey Quays, you can now try a third: 香辣 xiāng là or aromatic spice. This is where the heat creeps up through a fragrance built from fresh chillies, fermented black beans and smoked bamboo shoots. It’s the pride of Hunan, a region in south central China often compared to Sichuan as a culinary cousin. Both share a humid climate that according to Traditional Chinese Medicine can create bodily ‘dampness’ - one of the infamous ‘Six Evils’ which both regions historically embraced spice in order to counteract.
Follow the neon glow from the street and enter a restaurant drenched in bold red interiors, where the acoustics mean your meal inevitably comes with a raucous soundtrack provided by the table next door. There’s a chaotic but infectious energy, the kind of place where a meal naturally turns into a minor celebration. Head chef Jianren Zhou, a veteran of 30 years in his hometown cuisine, oversees a menu that builds on Hunan tradition. The signature steamed fish head with chopped chillies (yes, just the head) is a must-order for curious diners and collagen enthusiasts.
Charismatic co-owner Winston Tao will insist that you try the cured beef with white chillies or stir-fried cabbage with glass noodles and salted egg yolk - a humble-looking dish with unexpectedly addictive texture composition. Balance the meal with a few cold and hot starters: vinegar-drenched wood ear fungus, sweet corn ribs and stir-fried chives with dried tofu, which offers an oddly pleasing rubbery bite. If you’re intrigued, the Changsha stinky tofu has an umami kick I can’t get enough of. That said, one English friend spat it out immediately, so you can make up your own mind there.
As the daughter of a Hunanese restaurateur in Hong Kong, I’ve long wondered why Hunanese dishes haven’t achieved the same global fame as Sichuanese cooking, despite their shared love of heat. The ingredients can be trickier to source: more pickling, more fermentation, more sourness. As Londoners become increasingly adventurous with regional Chinese food (one example being the steady rise of Yunnanese restaurants), I’m hopeful that Hunan’s moment is next. If you haven’t tried it yet, Fiery Flavors is a lively place to start.
The vibe Unashamedly loud, bright and bold. A riotous atmosphere that complements surprisingly subtle flavours.
The food Sour, fermented and pickled: a punchy style that amplifies natural ingredients, instead of masking with oil or heavier flavours.
The drink Syrupy sweet plum juice, giant pots of Chinese tea and generously poured wine.
Time Out tip Book a round booth, gather an adventurous crew and dive into sharing a group feast, family style.