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Firezza (CLOSED)

Restaurants, Pizza Soho

Time Out says

Friendly warning! We're working hard to be accurate. But these are unusual times, so please check that venues remain open.

Please note, Firezza has now closed. Time Out Food editors, May 2019.

Bike-bound heroes Deliveroo might have turned your fave eateries into takeaways, but it’s rare that a take-out joint becomes a decent sit-in spot. That’s what’s happened with Firezza, though, which has just opened its first ‘proper’ restaurant on Soho’s Dean Street – a punchy move considering the competition from nearby Princi, Pizza Pilgrims, Franco Manca, MOD and so on. First impressions are good. The room is a snazzy space, wood-clad with plants and planks hanging from the ceiling, and higgledy-piggledy Italian posters on the walls. So far, so roll-out-ready.

Takeaway-wise, Firezza’s pizzas are a cut above standard delivery pies. Here, it’s sensibly stuck with a tried-and-trusted selection, only shaking up the formula by offering metre-long versions. I sampled four and all were excellent. First up, two specials. The tutta bufala, topped with buffalo salami, buffalo mozzarella and basil, was a perfect mish-mash of good ingredients on an excellently chewy Roman-style thin base. Then, a patate, festooned with sliced roast potato (carbs on carbs = obvs good), sweet red onion, fresh rosemary and taleggio cheese. Let it be known that taleggio – sweet, sharp, tangy – is a truly underrated pizza cheese. The Firezza go-to of the piccante, strewn with ’nduja, pepperoni and red chilli, was as good as it’s ever tasted after a night on the sauce (or with a raging hangover); while a salsiccia – served white, with Sicilian sausage, friarelli broccoli and garlic – was a fine example of a classic pizza. It didn’t quite pip that served by Theo’s in Camberwell – theirs is a bucket-list dish – but it was absolutely respectable.

There’s a smattering of antipasti and a couple of dolce available, but these feel like an aside. Firezza’s remit is pizza all the way, and it rolls with the best of ’em.

Details

Address: 22-25 Dean Street
Soho
London
W1D 3RY
Transport: Tube: Tottenham Court Road
Contact:
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